[DeTomaso] Techno question: stock wheel studs

[Joseph F. Byrd, Jr.]

Here is a stetch I have in my notes.   I can't recall where I got the
dimensions.

A relevant bit of info.  Recently on a different car forum, the guy replaced
all studs and when he went to torque most spun.  He was lucky and got them
off.  (I think he had to drill one)  

The "Monday Morning QB" call is when replacing studs, before putting the
wheels on, bottom out the nut and verify the stud will take torque

-----Original Message-----
From: Will Kooiman [mailto:will.kooiman at gmail.com] 
Sent: Monday, May 29, 2017 22:59 PM
To: Joseph F. Byrd, Jr.; 'Charles Engles'
Cc: detomaso at detomasolist.com
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Techno question: stock wheel studs

Hi Chuck,

The studs can be replaced easily enough.  Some of mine pressed out slightly
when I replaced wheel bearings many years ago.

If I recall correctly, they have a shoulder, so the serrations are only
there to prevent them from spinning.

But it might not be the stud.  It might be the stub axle.

If you¹re just driving on the street, I wouldn¹t worry about it.

They only real danger is like Joe said, it might be challenging to remove if
it spins the next time you remove a wheel.  If you¹re worried about that,
I¹d replace the stub axle.

My forged axles have threaded holes for studs.  Me like.

Will.

On 5/29/17, 10:49 PM, "DeTomaso on behalf of Joseph F. Byrd, Jr."
<detomaso-bounces at server.detomasolist.com on behalf of
byrdjf at embarqmail.com> wrote:

>My THINKING.   
>
>The studs should have an interference press in fit to the hub.  The 
>area on the studs where the press fit occurs is also seriated.  I was 
>thinking the serrations, sort of like knurling, allows for a less 
>tolerant control of the dimensions, thus an oversized stud could still 
>be pressed into the hub with moderate force.
>
>The consequences of pressing in the serrations into the hub causes them 
>to indent the inside diameter of the hub's fit.  This is a good thing 
>in that the "keying" HELPS the press fit from letting the stud turn 
>when torquing / removing.
>
>HOWEVER, I would NOT consider the "keying" by itself to be suffice for
>repeated use.   Being a little conservative with things mechanical, I
>would
>NOT use a stud that has lost its press fit (like yours).
>
>IF it should spin, think about how are you going to remove the nut!   Most
>cases require the nut to be drilled off.
>
>Joe
>
>If my thoughts are incorrect, I don't mind being put back into my place
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: DeTomaso [mailto:detomaso-bounces at server.detomasolist.com] On 
>Behalf Of Charles Engles
>Sent: Monday, May 29, 2017 22:32 PM
>To: detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
>Subject: [DeTomaso] Techno question: stock wheel studs
>
>Dear Forum,
>
> 
>
> 
>
>                       While mounting the rear wheels today, I noticed 
>that one wheel stud is loose and moves in and out about an eighth of an 
>inch.
>It
>does not rotate.  The other four studs are tight.   The loose stud
>permitted
>normal tightening and torqueing.
>
> 
>
>                        Dumb question: It shouldn't be loose.   Is it a
>big
>problem or a small one that can wait for an opportune time for correction?
>
> 
>
>                        Second dumb question:  Even though I just 
>finished an engine build, I have never dealt with wheel studs.  Easy, 
>medium or hard task for an amateur?
>
> 
>
> 
>
>                                         Warmest regards,  Chuck Engles
>
> 
>
> 
>
>
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