[DeTomaso] Chassis

Stephen Nelson steve at snclocks.com
Fri Aug 18 12:34:44 EDT 2017


Good morning Jack.  Given the fact the bolts holding the hex-sleeves are
torqued appropriately, and that the A-arm sleeve is polished, seems pretty
likely the rotation will be where we want it.  As for getting grease out to
the end-tabs - I just drilled through the sleeve, toward the center so the
zerk discharged into the area where the two halves of the bushing come
together - which gives a path for the grease to go around the bushing.  A
couple of squirts with a grease gun loaded with a Teflon-loaded grease and
the grease comes out between the bushings and the washers that are to either
side of the bushings.  I suspect if one was concerned about getting fresh
grease into the entire contact area between the washers and the bushings one
could  pump in more grease.  But, I also suspect that the grease will work
its way around as the arms flex up and down.

Now I need to go replace the rubber bushings in the front of my XKE - put in
rubber ones years ago and now wishing I had gone with urethane.

Stephen

-----Original Message-----
From: Jack Donahue [mailto:demongusta at gmail.com] 
Sent: Friday, August 18, 2017 8:41 AM
To: Stephen Nelson <steve at snclocks.com>
Cc: detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Chassis

Steve:
Two things:
1) - yes, the hex shaped sleeve pretty much guarantees no rotation of the
sleeve inside the bushing - so it seems. And as I recall, I had the
hex-shaped sleeves also. Which leads me to;
2) when you drilled the housing and inserted the zerks, did you make it so
the grease exiting the zerk is deposited on the surface of the bushing - the
interface between bushing and housing? And, if so, and the bushing gets nice
and slippery (and quiet), how does the grease reach the end tabs?

> On Aug 18, 2017, at 8:27 AM, Stephen Nelson <steve at snclocks.com> wrote:
> 
> Huh.  As I recall, the poly bushings I bought from Pantera Performance 
> had a hex-shaped inner-steel sleeve that clamped between the retaining
washers.
> No question, the bushing rotated inside the A-arm sleeves - which I 
> polished on my lathe to get rid of any burs after I drilled for grease 
> zerks.  In fact, I wrote an article on my technique for cleaning up 
> the inside of the A-arm sleeves - which is someplace on the POCA site 
> I suppose - couldn't spot a search function on POCA so am not sure 
> where it is.  And, well, it runs to 4 MB which, as I recall, this 
> forum won't support - so, if anyone wants a copy, in Word, send me an
e-mail off-list.
> 
> Stephen Nelson
> steve at snclocks.com
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: DeTomaso [mailto:detomaso-bounces at server.detomasolist.com] On 
> Behalf Of Mike Drew via DeTomaso
> Sent: Friday, August 18, 2017 7:15 AM
> To: Larry Weston <lplugw at hotmail.com>
> Cc: detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Chassis
> 
> Larry,
> 
> With poly bushings, you don't really get much choice. You might wish 
> for them to remain stationary in the mounts and rotate inside the 
> A-arms, or remain stationary in both the mounts and the A-arms and 
> rotate around the bolts, but they are going to do whatever they want 
> to do, and all you can hope for is to control the effects through
lubrication.
> 
> Yet another reason why I vastly prefer stock bushings....
> 
> Mike
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
>> On Aug 18, 2017, at 03:30, Larry Weston <lplugw at hotmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Please advise then, with the poly bushings, is the bushing to rotate 
>> on
> the chassis mount bolt sleeve and be stationary in the A arm or is the 
> bushing to be held stationary in the chassis with the A arm rotating 
> on the bushing? Mikes comment below seems to first indicate the 
> former, but then suggests it's a combination of both?
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On Aug 18, 2017, at 1:49 AM, Mike Drew via DeTomaso
> <detomaso at server.detomasolist.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> One more thought:
>>> 
>>> The poly bushings squeak on the ENDS where they rub against the 
>>> mounting
> brackets. People also routinely overtighten the mounting bolts which 
> probably aggravates the situation.
>>> 
>>> People will go to great extremes to lube the OD surface of the 
>>> bushing
> where it interfaces with the A-arm, and the inner surface where it 
> touches the steel sleeve, but fail to consider the ends, which can 
> rotate against the chassis mounts.
>>> 
>>> All surfaces need to be addressed. (This with poly bushings only). 
>>> 
>>> With stock bushings, it's important to not tighten the mounting 
>>> bolts
> with the suspension hanging unloaded. You can start them finger tight 
> that way, but jack each corner with a floor jack to load the 
> suspension before applying final torque.
>>> 
>>> The bolts have Nylock nuts so aren't relying on torque to maintain 
>>> their
> hold. Read the shop manual and follow the torque specifications 
> therein. The value might be lower than you would expect.....
>>> 
>>> Mike
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPad
>>> 
>>>> On Aug 17, 2017, at 21:42, Matt <nwpantera at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> With all due respect Dave it still sounds like you are not 100% 
>>>> positive where the squeaks are coming from.
>>>> You checked the sway bar bushings. They are rubber. Survey says 
>>>> rubber don't squeak.
>>>> So that leaves the suspension bushings. Are they rubber or poly? 
>>>> You haven't said which they are that I've read.
>>>> I would think suspension bushings not sway bars would have more 
>>>> tendency to squeak given your symptoms.
>>>> I would verify that for sure before making my next move.
>>>> If they are in fact poly then that's the problem and you've got 
>>>> plenty of help in that department ;-) Personally I prefer the 
>>>> original rubber bushings. I think the stated potential issues 
>>>> associated with poly just don't seem to be worth the handling gains.
>>>> That's because I don't race my car enough to justify it. Some do 
>>>> and that's usually is a popular upgrade.
>>>> I like a car with a forgiving ride and a little wiggle in it! Hence 
>>>> rubber.
>>>> Matt
>>>> 3584
>>>> 
>>>> On Thu, Aug 17, 2017 at 6:03 PM, [1]djenkins at vanguardtrailer.com 
>>>> <[2]djenkins at vanguardtrailer.com> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>>  A  A Sorry but now I am confused. I checked both the front and 
>>>> rear  sway  A  A bars and unless poly fittings are black I have 
>>>> rubber bushings.
>>>>  I
>>>>  A  A assume they are the originals. Something is squeaking so what  
>>>> is the  A  A best course of action? Add zerks or replace?
>>>>  A  A Dave
>>>>  A  A Sent from my Verizon LG Smartphone  A  A ------ Original 
>>>> message------  A  A From: Jack Donahue  A  A Date: Wed, Aug 16, 
>>>> 2017 4:42 PM  A  A To: Julian Kift;  A  A Cc: 
>>>> [1][3]detomaso at server.detomasolist.com;
>>>>  A  A Subject:Re: [DeTomaso] Chassis  I HIGHLY suggest the rubber 
>>>> vs poly...If you drive your car d- on  the street lik  e most 
>>>> everyone else, you'll never appreciate the difference - and  it 
>>>> just ain't  A worth the effort every time she squeaks. It's 
>>>> embarrassing.
>>>>  Just sayin'
>>>>  Jack
>>>>  #4348
>>>>> On Aug 15, 2017, at 4:10 PM, Julian KiftA  wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>> A  A OEM rubber bushings don't squeak, but aftermarket poly
>>>>  bushings do,
>>>>> A  A they require an annual greasing, so not necessarily 'bad',
>>>>  just feeling
>>>>> A  A unloved...
>>>>> 
>>>>> A  A Julian
>>>>> A  A  A ______________________________
>>>>  ____________________________________
>>>>> 
>>>>> A  A From: DeTomasoA  on behalf of A  [2] 
>>>>> [4]djenkins at vanguardtrailer.com A  A Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 
>>>>> 2017 4:06 PM A  A To:[3] [5]detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
>>>>> A  A Subject: [DeTomaso] Chassis
>>>>> 
>>>>> A  A Hit a bump, step on the brake, turn the corner, the chassis
>>>>  squeaks and
>>>>> A  A groans. Is this bad bushings?
>>>>> A  A ThanksSent from my Verizon LG Smartphone 
>>>>> _______________________________________________
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