[DeTomaso] Stud Mount 7/16 1.73 Cleveland roller rockers

[wkooiman at earthlink.net]

I have 2 sets of roller rockers.

I have ball stud, 3/8", roller tips made for a 351C.  I don't remember who made them - CAT??.  I haven't looked at them in a long time, but if I recall correctly, they are made well.

I have Crane Gold Race 7/16" for a 351C.

The Crane Rockers are very nice.  The oiling squirts the right amount of oil, right where it belongs.  And, of course, everything else is made well.

I believe the other rockers squirted a lot more oil.

I know - the deciding factor shouldn't be how they manage oil, but it is a factor - one that is normally overlooked.


-----Original Message-----
>From: JDeRyke at aol.com
>Sent: Oct 14, 2010 2:31 AM
>To: jpgstangs at aol.com, detomaso at realbig.com
>Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Stud Mount 7/16 1.73 Cleveland roller rockers
>
>In a message dated 10/13/10 11:59:34 PM, jpgstangs at aol.com writes:
>
>> Anyone have 7/16 stud mount 1.73 Cleveland roller rockers for sale? 
>> Looking for budget alternatives--any experience with "generic brands" of roller 
>> rockers?
>> 
>I'm running Harland Sharp extruded aluminum roller rockers, which are 
>fairly economical and have lasted me 18 years. But then, I don't go over 6200 
>rpms and my valve springs are fairly soft. From what the serious guys write, 
>ALL aluminum rockers will eventually break with enough spring pressure and 
>rpms, so it kind of depends on what's in your motor and how hard you wring its 
>neck. Cast stainless roller rockers are almost as light as aluminum and last 
>far longer but cost 50% more. There's also more clearance available for 
>bigger diameter springs from less bulky steel rollers. 
>Note that most 'economical' roller rockers including mine do NOT have 
>needle bearings on the roller tip- its steel roller on steel axle there, 
>splash-lubricated. So high rpms tend to flat-spot the roller tips against valve stem 
>tips, and the tip rollers are not very hard. They are replaceable on most- 
>look for circlips rather than staked rivits on tip-axles. More expensive 
>ones have needle bearings everywhere- again for extra $$$. 
>If you get used ones from E-Bay, I would totally strip them, visually check 
>eveything with a magnifying glass for cracks, chips & flat-spotted needles, 
>and cross my fingers when first starting up....there's a reason they're for 
>sale cheap. Finally, be sure you install them correctly: the flat area on 
>the pivot shaft points UPWARD so the poly-lock has a flat area to torque down 
>on. Install them upside down and adjustments will be good for maybe 20 
>miles no matter how tight you torque them. 
>I run a stud girdle to hold things together and to positively lock the 
>poly-locks down. All stud-girdle makers have their own poly-locks so check 
>before ordering 'cause they don't fit each others products. Good luck- J DeRyke
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