[DeTomaso] Alternator Options

[John Buckman]

If a charging system is working correctly, the alternator will only produce enough current (amps) to supply
the demand of the electrical equipment that is in use at any given time (lights, fans, ignition, etc), plus a small
amount to keep the battery "topped off".  So, an alternator of any amperage will only provide what the electrical
system requires.

If there is a short in the car's wiring, then the charging system sees this as an additional demand and will try
to meet this new demand by producing more current (amps) up to the full output of the alternator.

If the field relay in the voltage regulator were to stick closed (aka a stuck voltage regulator), then the alternator would 
"run wild" and will try to produce its maximum current (amps).  In this condition, the alternator is capable of producing
a very high voltage.  This excess voltage is passed into the electrical system components (lights, fans, stereo, 
ignition, etc) including the battery.  The battery is the only place that the excess current (amps) can go, so your
battery starts to boil and could eventually explode.  This condition has the potential (pun intended) to cause 
serious damage to the electrical system such as, but not limited to, electrical system components failure and burned/melted 
wiring and connections.

If a larger 3-wire alternator is installed, and the electrical system has had minimal electrical items added, then there
shouldn't be any problems (except possibly the stock ammeter).  If numerous electrical items have been added,
then the wires from the alternator to the ammeter and from the ammeter to the battery or starter solenoid (depends
upon year) should be increased in size, and the stock ammeter (if used) should be "upgraded".

If a one wire alternator is installed, it can eliminate having to rewire to the ammeter.  One large wire (usually a #2 or #4) 
needs to be connected from the alternator to the battery terminal of the starter solenoid.  This configuration will require 
replacement of the ammeter with a voltmeter, or installing a shunt type ammeter with a remote mounted shunt.

A second one wire alternator installation would be to use the existing Veglia ammeter (not recommended).  This 
would require that a large wire be run from the alternator to the ammeter and from the ammeter to the battery or starter
solenoid.

If the added electrical items are connected to the fuse block inside the car, then the feed wire to the fuse block may
need to be increased in size.  If the added electrical items are fed from the battery via an additional fuse block or fuse 
holders, then no additional wiring should be required.  The one wire installations will require that the "GEN" light 
be disconnected.

There are variations and exceptions to the above that depend upon equipment added, wiring variations, and wiring
that was previously "hacked" or improperly done.  

YMMV

John