[DeTomaso] Electric Murphy
larry at ohiotimecorp.com
larry at ohiotimecorp.com
Thu Jul 2 21:28:34 EDT 2009
Sorry some of this did not make it the email. Let's try it again.
Hi JC,
Letâs take a look at how this all works in a stock set up.
When you turn the key switch to the run position 12 volts is supplied to the balist resistor
or resister wire going to the + side of the coil giving it 6-8 volts (running power). When
the key switch is turned farther to the start position it sends 12 volts of power to the
firewall mounted starter solenoid âIâ terminal (I think). When the solenoid energizes (big
relay) it sends 12 volt power to the starter on the big cable and also 12 volts on the âSâ
terminal (I think itâs S) to the + side of the coil giving it the full 12 volts of power.
With the drain on the battery from the starter the coil need as much voltage as it can get to
generate a good spark, to start the motor. That is why it bypasses the resistor in the system.
Knowing how this all works you can see that the key switch is most likely dropping the 12
volts when it is in the run position. The motor will run in the start position as it is
getting it 12 volts from the starter solenoid.
Back in the old days some people, of low morels, would âhot wireâ a car (or even a back hoe).
This involves a long wire with an alligator clip on each end. One end goes on the battery
side of the solenoid and the other end of the wire goes to the + (bat) side of the coil. This
is replacing the 12 volt feed from the key switch. Your car should start and run fine if this
is the problem and I am betting a Norwegian beer it is.
Remember you will need to remove the "hot wire" to stop the motor.
Larry (have my own back hoe now) - Cleveland
On Thu Jul 2 21:21 , sent:
>Hi JC,
>
>
>
>
>
>When you turn the key switch to the run position 12 volts is supplied to the balist resistor
>
>or resister wire going to the + side of the coil giving it 6-8 volts (running power). When
>
>the key switch is turned farther to the start position it sends 12 volts of power to the
>
>
>
>With the drain on the battery from the starter the coil needs as much voltage as it can get
>
>to generate a good spark, to start the motor. That is why it bypasses the resistor in the
>
>system.
>
>
>
>Knowing how this all works you can see that the key switch is most likely dropping the 12
>
>volts when it is in the run position. The motor will run in the start position as it is
>
>getting it 12 volts from the starter solenoid.
>
>
>
>This involves a long wire with an "alligator clip" on each end. One end goes on the battery
>
>side of the solenoid and the other end of the wire goes to the + (bat) side of the coil.
This
>
>is replacing the 12 volt feed from the key switch. Your car should start and run fine if
this
>
>is the problem and I am betting a Norwegian beer it is.
>
>
>
>Remember you will need to remove the "hot wire" to stop the motor.
>
>
>
>Larry (have my own back hoe now) - Cleveland
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>>Hi all!
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>>
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>>I need some good advice now!
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>>
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>>
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>>
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>>This spring my car started to act strange when I should start it!
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>>
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>>It wouldn`t fire on the key when it was cold, but it ran fine on the starter
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>>.
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>>
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>>When hot it fired right away.
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>>
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>>
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>>Now it won`t fire either cold or hot but still runs fine on the starter.
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>>Sometimes it fires but mostly not.
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>>When I push start it the car fires at once.
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>>
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>>
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>>Have tried a new battery, new MSD6 ingnition box.
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>>
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>>Checked cables and connections.
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>>Have put on an extra ground cable to the MSD6 box.
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>>Messured 10V into the MSD6 when I run it on the starter.
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>>Anyone??
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>>J.C.Olsen
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>>Norway
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>>
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