[DeTomaso] Starter Refresh

[JDeRyke at aol.com]

First, a more expensive deep-cycle battery only allows you to grind and grind 
on the starter without destroying the battery. But if things are correct in 
engine-ville, the engine will start reliably with a battery of half the stock 
Group 27, 94-amp specifications. Much of the slowness in starting is the carb 
float-bowls not being filled due to the car not being in daily use. So you use 
the poor starter to fill up the carb; very hard on a battery. I have a cheap 
electric booster fuel pump that is in parallel with the stock mechanical fuel 
pump. It is ONLY used to fill the carb for starting. Use plastic covers on the 
positive battery pole so the hood reinforcement cannot possibly touch the 
'hot' post.

Second, while I like welding cable for grounding, a stock 12-v ground cable 
will work, attached on an engine head-bolt or the ZF end-cap stud. It also 
makes no sense to me to buy a plastic-coated insulated ground cable, incidently; 
the whole idea is to ground the thing! 

Third, buying a rebuilt stock starter is not a sure cure for anything. Inside 
the integral starter solenoid are a pair of huge copper contacts that 
transfer battery amperage to the starter motor windings. These copper load-carrying 
contacts are mounted in substantial dielectric mounts.   Cheap rebuilds often 
use nylon rather than stock melamine dielectric mounts. Carrying 90-200 amps of 
current heats up the copper contacts and causes nylon to melt and sag, 
dropping the contacts away from each other. Result: a dozen starting attempts and 
the 'new' solenoid no longer works. Stick with quality rebuilds or ideally, a 
mini-starter from a vendor so yoiu know it fits. Good luck- J DeRyke



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