[DeTomaso] Fw: Starter Refresh

[Art Stephens]

 Stephen,
>     Something is seriously wrong if your carpet is smoking.  Maybe that 
> cable is just loose or has corroded connections?  The single biggest 
> improvement I made to my starting system was replacing the old ground 
> strap at the trans with a new cable.
>
> Good luck,
> Art
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "SEL" <edlebby at yahoo.com>
> To: <detomaso at realbig.com>; <SCPOCA at yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, March 12, 2008 5:04 PM
> Subject: [DeTomaso] Starter Refresh
>
>
>> Something is just not right in Starter-ville.  Having looked at different 
>> things, it is time for a wholesale refresh.  Here is a step by step with 
>> parts.  I am hoping you might add items I have overlooked or tips/tricks. 
>> Thanks.
>>
>> Battery:
>> buy new deep cycle marine battery
>> low profile to fit under hood - recommendations?
>> Negative Cable:
>> from battery to grounding bolt near firewall -
>> some have recommended 00 welding cable - is this guage necessary? - 
>> alternatives? - Jack D likes welding cable "-Welding cable has many more 
>> far finer copper wires braided into it than automotive cable, which is 
>> often aluminum nowadays. Current carrying capacity is rated by the 
>> metallurgy and surface area of all the tiny wires added together; a piece 
>> of 3/8" OD copper pipe won't carry as much current as a 3/8" OD braided 
>> cable. Don't skimp here- your new wire may carry practically ALL the 
>> current sent to the starter, which can be over 250 amps!"
>> clean ground post at fire wall
>> cut carpet away from ground post (currently melts and smokes as i crank 
>> starter)
>> Positive Cable:
>> from battery to ammeter (amp meter? difference?)
>> gauge?
>> once this goes through the fire wall, is it accessible from under the 
>> car? or does it snake through panels - tips/tricks on working this back?
>> at ammeter, what type of connecter do I need?
>> clean ammeter thoroghly - use die electric (sp?) grease or coppor 
>> antiseize at all connections [yes??]
>> what am I connecting to?
>> from ammeter to starter
>> gauge?
>> connectors
>> alternative from Larry Weston
>> "I pulled the heavy cable for the starter off the firewall (stock) 
>> solenoid and attached it to the big stud on the battery side of that 
>> solenoid. I made up a 12 guage wire with a spade terminal on one end for 
>> the terminal on the starter motor solenoid and a large ring terminal on 
>> the other end which got attached to the other big stud on the firewall 
>> mounted solenoid.
>> (cont.) This arrangement avoids starter current passing through two 
>> relays, sends serious current to the starter solenoid for more positive 
>> engagement (and keeps the load off my ignition switch) and still leaves 
>> the stock firewall solenoid in place to send a signal to the start spark 
>> retard wire on my Duraspark module."
>> Would this work for me? - I have an MSD ignition of some sort (6AL?) -
>> is this a better way to go (it clearly was for Larry)?
>> alternative from new starter motor I bought (see below)
>> "1) Primary cable [assume this is the positive cable off of the battery?] 
>> to the starter is moved to the "power" side of the starter relay (on the 
>> bulkhead) [what i have been calling the amp meter/ammeter??] ...so its 
>> always hot."
>> "2) A smaller gage wire (supplied with the kit, including pre-attached 
>> connectors) goes from the starter to the "other side" of the relay.
>> Starter Motor
>> bought new hi-torque, mini starter - need to install - have an email or 
>> two on that (thanks Tom Baranek)
>> model #3223 from www.dbelectrical.com $49
>> as above, it has its own wiring recommendations -
>> Additional Grounding:
>> read many recommendation for additional grounding
>> Jack D writes:
>> On most U.S  Panteras, there's a stud near the rear of the frame designed 
>> to take a ground off the back of the ZF, and I've seen others that used a 
>> longer ground wire off a head bolt to a clean spot on the subframe 
>> extensions. The stock setup also depends on multiple spot-welds that make 
>> up our cars monococque, to carry starting current flow from the starter 
>> motor back to the front-mounted battery's ground post during starting, 
>> and on some cars with many broken (or never-made) welds, it just doesn't 
>> happen."
>> So, I replace the current ground strap (flat, 1" or so braided copper 
>> wire) - clean connections
>> Then run a [what? 00 weld cable? flat ground strap?] wire from a head 
>> bolt to a clean spot on the subframe extensions - not sure what the 
>> subframe extensions are? - when we say "clean spot" that means tap a hole 
>> and bolt it there...right?
>>
>> Beyond that, I don't know - there are ton's of threads about doing 
>> something under the dash where a bunch of wires are grounded - some 
>> threads on ignition stuff - but none of that seems related to this 
>> project - but any and all other suggestions/thoughts are most welcome!! - 
>> thanks, stephen
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