[DeTomaso] Starter Refresh

[Art Stephens]

Stephen,
     Something is seriously wrong if your carpet is smoking.  Maybe that 
cable is just loose or has corroded connections?  The single biggest 
improvement I made to my starting system was replacing the old ground strap 
at the trans with a new cable.

Good luck,
Art


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "SEL" <edlebby at yahoo.com>
To: <detomaso at realbig.com>; <SCPOCA at yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 12, 2008 5:04 PM
Subject: [DeTomaso] Starter Refresh


> Something is just not right in Starter-ville.  Having looked at different 
> things, it is time for a wholesale refresh.  Here is a step by step with 
> parts.  I am hoping you might add items I have overlooked or tips/tricks. 
> Thanks.
>
> Battery:
> buy new deep cycle marine battery
> low profile to fit under hood - recommendations?
> Negative Cable:
> from battery to grounding bolt near firewall -
> some have recommended 00 welding cable - is this guage necessary? - 
> alternatives? - Jack D likes welding cable "-Welding cable has many more 
> far finer copper wires braided into it than automotive cable, which is 
> often aluminum nowadays. Current carrying capacity is rated by the 
> metallurgy and surface area of all the tiny wires added together; a piece 
> of 3/8" OD copper pipe won't carry as much current as a 3/8" OD braided 
> cable. Don't skimp here- your new wire may carry practically ALL the 
> current sent to the starter, which can be over 250 amps!"
> clean ground post at fire wall
> cut carpet away from ground post (currently melts and smokes as i crank 
> starter)
> Positive Cable:
> from battery to ammeter (amp meter? difference?)
> gauge?
> once this goes through the fire wall, is it accessible from under the car? 
> or does it snake through panels - tips/tricks on working this back?
> at ammeter, what type of connecter do I need?
> clean ammeter thoroghly - use die electric (sp?) grease or coppor 
> antiseize at all connections [yes??]
> what am I connecting to?
> from ammeter to starter
> gauge?
> connectors
> alternative from Larry Weston
> "I pulled the heavy cable for the starter off the firewall (stock) 
> solenoid and attached it to the big stud on the battery side of that 
> solenoid. I made up a 12 guage wire with a spade terminal on one end for 
> the terminal on the starter motor solenoid and a large ring terminal on 
> the other end which got attached to the other big stud on the firewall 
> mounted solenoid.
> (cont.) This arrangement avoids starter current passing through two 
> relays, sends serious current to the starter solenoid for more positive 
> engagement (and keeps the load off my ignition switch) and still leaves 
> the stock firewall solenoid in place to send a signal to the start spark 
> retard wire on my Duraspark module."
> Would this work for me? - I have an MSD ignition of some sort (6AL?) -
> is this a better way to go (it clearly was for Larry)?
> alternative from new starter motor I bought (see below)
> "1) Primary cable [assume this is the positive cable off of the battery?] 
> to the starter is moved to the "power" side of the starter relay (on the 
> bulkhead) [what i have been calling the amp meter/ammeter??] ...so its 
> always hot."
> "2) A smaller gage wire (supplied with the kit, including pre-attached 
> connectors) goes from the starter to the "other side" of the relay.
> Starter Motor
> bought new hi-torque, mini starter - need to install - have an email or 
> two on that (thanks Tom Baranek)
> model #3223 from www.dbelectrical.com $49
> as above, it has its own wiring recommendations -
> Additional Grounding:
> read many recommendation for additional grounding
> Jack D writes:
> On most U.S  Panteras, there's a stud near the rear of the frame designed 
> to take a ground off the back of the ZF, and I've seen others that used a 
> longer ground wire off a head bolt to a clean spot on the subframe 
> extensions. The stock setup also depends on multiple spot-welds that make 
> up our cars monococque, to carry starting current flow from the starter 
> motor back to the front-mounted battery's ground post during starting, and 
> on some cars with many broken (or never-made) welds, it just doesn't 
> happen."
> So, I replace the current ground strap (flat, 1" or so braided copper 
> wire) - clean connections
> Then run a [what? 00 weld cable? flat ground strap?] wire from a head bolt 
> to a clean spot on the subframe extensions - not sure what the subframe 
> extensions are? - when we say "clean spot" that means tap a hole and bolt 
> it there...right?
>
> Beyond that, I don't know - there are ton's of threads about doing 
> something under the dash where a bunch of wires are grounded - some 
> threads on ignition stuff - but none of that seems related to this 
> project - but any and all other suggestions/thoughts are most welcome!! - 
> thanks, stephen
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