[DeTomaso] Electrical Gremlins still live!

[RKMosier at aol.com]

Michael,
 
1- Check to make sure the wire from the alt that runs to the alt light on  
the dash is connected well.  That was one problem I had.  In trying to  trace 
the problem I even ran a long jumper wire from the alt to the back of the  dash 
to make sure I didn't have a broken wire somewhere.
 
2- I don't know about your car, but my 72 Pre L has a diode behind the dash  
hooked up to the alt light.  This is part of the way the alt know to charge  
the battery.  If that diode is loose or broken the alt will not charge I  
suspect. I did not have this problem but Wilkinson suggested checking it  when I 
called for help.  Also I found that when my alt stopped charging  because of the 
3rd problem, this diode got really really hot.  So hot that  I was worried  
it might burn some thing.
 
 3- On my alt with the regulator inside I had to hook up a two wire  plug the 
new alternator.  First I bought the $1.99 one from Autozone and it  didn't 
make a good connection.  A local mechanic gave me the $6.00 version  made in the 
good old USA and it worked perfect.
 
Richard Mosier
 
 
In a message dated 3/2/2008 5:45:20 P.M. Pacific Standard Time (Mexi,  
michaelsavga at gmail.com writes:

Greetings all,

Today was the proverbial day from hell if  measured by frustration level.

I discover that the Alt had been  replaced in the past ( as it would
have been naturally ) and I should have  known this because I have done
belts before and it never really occurred to  me to examine the thing
as it worked fine ( note; know hat everything is  before you need to
know ).  IT was now an internal fan unit with a  built in voltage
regulator.
Given all the advice from here pinpointing  that as a possible cause of
my non working gauges and constant battery  drain, I opted to remove
the ALT and take it to Advance Auto Parts and have  it tested,
sur'nuff, it was putting out a total of 4 volts, problem solved  or so
I thought.

I bought a new unit ( pulley exchange required, so  for the record, the
unit that fits is for a 1992 Ford E150 Econoline Van  with a 302 ) with
95 amps, that was 149.95, the super  performance  version with 200 amps
was not in stock and at 399.95 wasn't going to happen  anyway.

I went home, installed the new ALT and drove back to the store  and
ta-da. NOTHING!  Machine showed that I had no charge going on with  a
brand new ALT with new Voltage Reg installed with a new,  properly
tightened belt, etc.

Still no gauges, and a dying battery  because it ain't getting charged back 
up.

I took the new rear GT$  taillights out, sanded away the paint where
they mount to the bodywork, so  I'm fairly sure that if I had a short
or bad ground back there that it's  gone.

I'm at my wit's end.

One suggestion was that our amp  gauges are stupid and that it could be
the problem ( as opposed to a  Voltmeter ).

all the fuses are fine and the Motor to chassis strap is  fine.

What else is there between the ALT and the battery that  could
interrupt the signal telling the ALt to get to work?

as stated  before I have a MSD-6AL, a MSD Electronic Dist, MSD Tach
adapter, Accel  300+ wires,, MSD High Voltage coil, and the thing runs
great as long as the  battery has been charged up before you go out and
obviously you can't use  the headlights or it's gonna die fast.

Any ideas?

Michael in  Savannah

BTW, I did a photo series on the ALT R and R and included the  belts,
I'll post that as soon as I can to the bottom of the root  cause.



-- 
Michael L. Shortt
Savannah,  Georgia
www.michaelshortt.com
michael at michaelshortt.com


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