[DeTomaso] main water tubes

[Don Franck]

I though we were trying to route plumbing according to JT and Mike Trusty's
new cooling route.  I don't think any vendors supply that.




On 6/19/08, JDeRyke at aol.com <JDeRyke at aol.com> wrote:
>
> I see no advantage in changing from my vendor-supplied stainless steel
> water
> tubes (modified for our car's system) to some other non-corrosive material.
> If
> new tubes are to be made from something that radiates more heat for better
> engine cooling while not corroding, then some of that extra heat will go
> into
> the main cabin. Adding heat rejecting materal so that the car's floor is
> blocked
> from receiving extra heat, only adds more weight. A recent write-up for
> Dynamat says 'doing a complete car typically only adds 100 lbs of
> weight....'.
> Probably not talking about a 2-seat sportscar, but still....
>
> So did I miss something here; what's the purpose? To improve cooling or
> avoid
> paying a vendor for their well-worked-out stainless system to replace the
> rust-out failures of stockers? If it's only to improve cooling, all the
> pipes
> should be replaced: besides the main straight pipes, there's the curled
> pipe
> attached to the water pump inlet, the curled pipe attached to the
> thermostat
> housing, the curled one that goes from a straight pipe to the swirl tank
> and the
> two bent pipes going to & from the radiator inlet/outlet. Together these 5
> pieces are longer than either of the straight pipes and may not impact
> cabin
> heating as much. And if I were to do this, I'd use 2" tube everywhere so as
> to
> improve water flow a little. FWIW- J DeRyke, confused
>
>
> **************
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>
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