[DeTomaso] [NPC] Air pressure regulator
Steve Hawkins
shawkins777 at comcast.net
Fri Nov 16 23:23:41 EST 2007
I've seen copper used in industrial settings and it holds up well.
Steve
-----Original Message-----
From: detomaso-bounces at realbig.com [mailto:detomaso-bounces at realbig.com] On
Behalf Of Art Stephens
Sent: Friday, November 16, 2007 10:22 PM
To: Mark McWhinney; 'John Taphorn'; 'Pantera List'
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] [NPC] Air pressure regulator
Mark,
I did my compressor line with galvanized, figuring it would be strong
and simple since it's threaded, wrong! It was a major headache for me
getting all the joints to keep from leaking, it was not fun at all. I
thought if I ever did it again, I would probably go with copper and solder
the joints. Just one guy's experience.
Art
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark McWhinney" <msm at portata.com>
To: "'John Taphorn'" <jtaphorn at kingwoodcable.com>; "'Pantera List'"
<detomaso at realbig.com>
Sent: Friday, November 16, 2007 1:02 PM
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] [NPC] Air pressure regulator
> Hi John,
>
> Thanks for the info.
>
> The problem with PVC is not that tends to break but what happens when
> it does. Copper splits, but PVC fragments like a grenade. I had
> thought about building a gutter with a pair of 2x4 run along the wall.
> That way, if the pipe shatters, the fragments would blow upwards
> instead of out or down. I would have to cover the drops and the
> connectors by the tank too, so I dropped that idea.
>
> I am going to hit some stores this afternoon to price out copper vs.
> black iron in 1/2". Unless there is a huge price different, I would
> go with black iron simply because it would screw together instead of
> sweat-soldering.
>
> Mark
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: detomaso-bounces at realbig.com
> [mailto:detomaso-bounces at realbig.com]
> On
> Behalf Of John Taphorn
> Sent: Friday, November 16, 2007 6:42 AM
> To: Mark McWhinney; 'Pantera List'
> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] [NPC] Air pressure regulator
>
> Hey Mark
>
> I recently did the same. Sears just rolled out a new two-stage 80 gal
> model
>
> that they offered on sale through the Craftsmen Club. I'd been looking
> for an upgrade for some time to replace my obnoxiously noisy smaller
> unit. This
>
> appeared to be a better deal than most I have seen. Another local
> Pantera guy also picked one up for his garage.
>
> I researched the laying of the lines and benefits verses cautions of
> different pipe. In the end, I went with 1/2" PVC due to cost. It
> matches my higher risk profile. The 1/2" PVC is rated for 600 lbs;
> although, I understand it is usually the connectors that fail. Of
> course, an advantage of the preferred black iron pipe besides strength
> is that it better cools the air, condensing out the moisture. If your
> distances are short, the price may not be unreasonable to do it right
> with black pipe. FYI, black pipe is preferred over galvanized that
> may flake over time and copper, which
>
> is considered weaker.
>
> It is best to have your regulator close to your outlet for the tool
> after your line conditioners if possible. This way you can adjust for
> line loss and the 5 -10lbs of air loss through the conditioner and
> oiler if you use one. However, my regulator is at the compressor
> because I am running PVC and
>
> thought it best to reduce the line pressure.
>
> You will also find that a dryer located adjacent to the compressor is
> worthless. It is better to place it in the line closer to your outlet
> where
>
> the air has had an opportunity to cool. I did manage that. I run my
> regulator about 10lbs higher to address pressure loss in the lines.
>
> It is best to run loops for the blast cabinet and another dryer at the
> entrance of the line into the cabinet. Again, if the air is hot at
> the dryer, the dryer will be ineffective.
>
> I used to have my dryer right after the regulator on my old
> compressor, it never had any moisture in it. That changed after I
> moved it further away.
>
> Good luck with the plumbing.
>
> JT
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mark McWhinney" <msm at portata.com>
> To: "'Pantera List'" <detomaso at realbig.com>
> Sent: Thursday, November 15, 2007 8:43 PM
> Subject: [DeTomaso] [NPC] Air pressure regulator
>
>
>>I finally got 220v wired to my new compressor. (It turns out that I
>>already had 220 3-phase in my sub panel, so life is good.)
>>
>> I am planning the plumbing now. I am trying to set it up such that I
>> can condense out most of the water vapor but have a minimum number of
>> taps to drain at the end of the day. Of course, I want to have a lot
>> of taps and want to minimize the number of bends. No PVC but low
>> cost.
>>
>> I am having fun drawing up various plans for my poor-man's dream
>> garage. Coming out of the tank, I'll have an 8 foot vertical pipe
>> with horizontal pipes branching off at the top. It is a small shop
>> (basically one car put
>
>> a
>> work area), so I don't need to get too fancy.
>>
>> Some questions:
>>
>> Where do I put the pressure regulator(s)? Do I put one next to the
>> tank to running the plumbing at 90 psi or do I put regulators at the
>> taps so that the plumbing runs at the full 155 psi?
>>
>> Same question about the air filters.
>>
>> I'll have the blast cabinet next to the compressor. Should I run a
>> short pipe from the tank to the blast cabinet for max air flow or run
>> a long pipe with loops to condense out the water vapor?
>>
>>
>>
>>
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