[DeTomaso] Front suspension - Disassembly, Day 1

[Asa Jay Laughton]

Well, I got the Pantera positioned and in the air for a long stay.  Not 
a restoration kind of stay but a while nonetheless.

Thanks to SOBills wise tutelage, I removed the lower ball joint from the 
lower a-arm and the shock came right out.  Mind you I -did- take the 
brake caliper off first.  I then unbolted the sway bar from both ends 
which allowed the drivers side to swing freely.

Initial appraisal of the drivers side:
- Lower bushings seem to be tight, no clunking, and plenty of rubbery 
resistance through the range of motion.
- Upper bushing seem to be okay as well, similar feel and reactions.
- Lower ball joint:  I can position the lower ball in just the right 
spot that I get a dry metal-to-metal clunk, I think it needs replacing.
- Upper ball joint still has the front spindle hanging from it so it's 
harder for me to tell.  But I -can- tell you the boot is -shot-.

So, at the very least, I'm in for new ball joints.  And as I'm in here, 
I'm still considering doing the bushings, but I'll wait till I have it 
all apart first.  I'm not doing any restorations just yet, simply 
keeping it on the road. :)

Asa Jay

Asa Jay Laughton, MSgt, USAFR, Retired

& Shelley Marie
Spokane, WA

1973 Pantera L 5533
[ASASCAT]
    
******************************     
http://www.asajay.com
http://www.351c.info
  



MikeLDrew at aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 7/29/07 17 37 22, asajay at asajay.com writes:
>
>
>> You bring up a good point Mike.  While under the car doing a general
>> inspection, I noted my steering rack rebuild is leaking quite
>> profusely.  The first problem is that the passenger side boot has worn
>> itself a hole near the clamp. 
>
> >>>Yet another reason to use grease instead of oil, as Ferrari does 
> (using the same rack).
>
>
>> Second problem is that the pinion seal
>> needs to be replaced (something Larry Stock didn't have on the truck
>> that weekend we rebuilt it at Roger's place).
>
> >>>Again, not a factor when grease is the chosen lube.
>
>
>>   And it looks like the
>> opposite cover is probably leaking too.  Argh, I guess that's what I get
>> for jacking the car up. :)
>>
> >>>Well, if you yank the rack out (which will only take a few more 
> minutes since apparently you're changing all the ball joints?), it's a 
> fairly simple procedure to open it up, clean it out, replace the oil 
> with the appropriate grease (CRC engine assembly lube, 0-1/2 weight, 
> comes in a black tube, available in tiny tubes at most auto parts 
> stores, and mongo-sized tubes at some of them), then put it all back 
> together.
>
>> I made note of your comments about the steering u-joints.  They did seem
>> to be in good shape, but now with the car in the air I can do a proper
>> inspection on both the inside ones and the outside ones.  Thanks for the
>> tip.
>
> >>>Have Shelly very, very gently wiggle the steering wheel from side 
> to side, while you are under the car, and examine the bottom U-joint.  
> On my car, upstream rotation initially was seen as a twist/bend in the 
> U-joint itself, before it locked up and then transmitted the rotation 
> downstream.  The U-joint was also rattling-loose on the splined shaft 
> because the bolt which had been used to secure it, was totally 
> stripped.  You should be able to see unwanted movement of the U-joint 
> inside the car yourself, by kneeling outside the car, peering under 
> the dash and gently wiggling the wheel.
>
> Mike
>
>
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