[DeTomaso] Overheating problem

Tue Jul 2 07:32:27 EDT 2024

Yup,

That’s a Windsor thermostat with a Cleveland bypass. Never works. 

The other one is the Windsor thermostat with the substitute bypass…

Mike

Sent from my iPad

> On Jul 2, 2024, at 03:56, bill gaino <gaino at earthlink.net> wrote:
> 
> Here is a pic discription of my overheat problem that took my 10 years to correct!  AHH 
> www.slickpaint.net
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Julian Kift <julian_kift at hotmail.com>
> Sent: Jul 1, 2024 6:00 PM
> To: George Sekula <georgesekula at outlook.com>, Mike Drew <mikeldrew at aol.com>
> Cc: detomaso at server.detomasolist.com <detomaso at server.detomasolist.com>
> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Overheating problem
> 
> Can we assume that prior to your water pump failure the car was running well and not overheating?
> 
> If so then I agree with Mike, with the addition that I'm not 100% convinced you have the correct thermostat. There was an undocumented change to the Flowkooler thermostats some time back and even Summit lists the Robert Shaw 333 as a "non-bypass" and although the plunger / hat is of a close dimension it may not be extending to the bypass restrictor plate hole.
> 
> Julian
> 
> ________________________________
> From: DeTomaso on behalf of Mike Drew via DeTomaso
> Sent: Monday, July 1, 2024 2:05 PM
> To: George Sekula
> Cc: detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Overheating problem
> 
> George,
> 
> The symptoms you describe are consistent with a lot of trapped air in the system. Filling and bleeding the system is normally an iterative process that can take several days (for complete cooldown between bleeds).
> 
> With the radiator bleeder open, and the rear of the car elevated, the pressure tank should be filled while the engine is running. When the thermostat opens it will gulp water from the tank, practically emptying it, at which point you should top it off.
> 
> This will make a big fat mess.
> 
> Bleeding the air from the bleeder and topping off the tank after the thermostat has opened will enable you to get it mostly full. Then install a new cap on the pressure tank and ensure the overflow is about half full.
> 
> When the car cools off it may suck water from the overflow so the pressure tank remains full but the overflow level is reduced. If your cap is leaking it will just suck air, so the pressure tank level will be down and the overflow will remain the same.
> 
> After a few cycles it should resolve itself.
> 
> As a technique I sometimes overfill the overflow bottle, knowing that it will dump excess coolant overboard. Route a long hose from the overflow to the rear of the car so it doesn’t get onto the tire.
> 
> It will dump upon engine shutdown. This can be embarrassing but eventually it will reach its happy spot and stop dumping.
> 
> Good luck and please keep us posted!
> 
> Mike
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
>> On Jul 1, 2024, at 13:35, George Sekula wrote:
>> 
>> I am struggling with overheating after I changed the water pump and
>> thermostat. New water pump is an Edelbrock 8844 with a new overdrive
>> pully. The thermostat is a Robertshaw 333 from Flowkooler via Summit
>> Racing. I tested the operating temperature on the thermostat several
>> times and it opens at exactly at180F. The dimensions match their
>> website. The original bypass restrictor is still installed, with a
>> 3/4" hole; the thermostat plunger is 11/16". It acts like there is
>> water in the engine that does not get circulated until you shut the
>> engine off. Hot water violently flows into the overflow tank and the
>> water temperature instantly raises 30F. When you start the engine
>> everything acts normal. You can feel the water start to flow in the
>> tube at 180F, radiator warms up, fans turn on and the temperature holds
>> perfect for a while. Then the temperature slowly climbs. Driving the
>> car, the temperature will slowly climb higher, maybe 210F. The two
>> radiator fan temperature switches work as they should, but they are not
>> detecting this hot water. When I filled the system, the bleeder on top
>> of the radiator was open with 3 ft of clear tubing to get it higher
>> than the block and tanks. The temperature sender in the top of the
>> block was removed until coolant flowed out (wish I had added tubing).
>> Tried raising the back, then tried raising the front while topping off
>> the tank. The leaking pump that I replaced was a Wieland and it was not
>> drilled for the bypass circuit, the thermostat was a Gates 180 that I
>> installed 30 years ago. Radiator is a 3-pass aluminum with two large
>> pusher fans. What is the best method for filling the system to prevent
>> trapped air? Are there other things that I need to check?
>> _______________________________________________
>> 
>> 
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> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> 
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> 
> Can we assume that prior to your water pump failure the car was running
> well and not overheating?
> 
> If so then I agree with Mike, with the addition that I'm not 100%
> convinced you have the correct thermostat. There was an undocumented
> change to the Flowkooler thermostats some time back and even Summit
> lists the Robert Shaw 333 as a "non-bypass" and although the plunger /
> hat is of a close dimension it may not be extending to the bypass
> restrictor plate hole.
> 
> Julian
> __________________________________________________________________
> 
> From: DeTomaso on behalf of
> Mike Drew via DeTomaso
> Sent: Monday, July 1, 2024 2:05 PM
> To: George Sekula
> Cc: detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Overheating problem
> 
> George,
> The symptoms you describe are consistent with a lot of trapped air in
> the system. Filling and bleeding the system is normally an iterative
> process that can take several days (for complete cooldown between
> bleeds).
> With the radiator bleeder open, and the rear of the car elevated, the
> pressure tank should be filled while the engine is running. When the
> thermostat opens it will gulp water from the tank, practically emptying
> it, at which point you should top it off.
> This will make a big fat mess.
> Bleeding the air from the bleeder and topping off the tank after the
> thermostat has opened will enable you to get it mostly full. Then
> install a new cap on the pressure tank and ensure the overflow is about
> half full.
> When the car cools off it may suck water from the overflow so the
> pressure tank remains full but the overflow level is reduced. If your
> cap is leaking it will just suck air, so the pressure tank level will
> be down and the overflow will remain the same.
> After a few cycles it should resolve itself.
> As a technique I sometimes overfill the overflow bottle, knowing that
> it will dump excess coolant overboard. Route a long hose from the
> overflow to the rear of the car so it doesn't get onto the tire.
> It will dump upon engine shutdown. This can be embarrassing but
> eventually it will reach its happy spot and stop dumping.
> Good luck and please keep us posted!
> Mike
> Sent from my iPad
>>> On Jul 1, 2024, at 13:35, George Sekula
>> wrote:
>> 
>> I am struggling with overheating after I changed the water pump
> and
>> thermostat. New water pump is an Edelbrock 8844 with a new
> overdrive
>> pully. The thermostat is a Robertshaw 333 from Flowkooler via
> Summit
>> Racing. I tested the operating temperature on the thermostat
> several
>> times and it opens at exactly at180F. The dimensions match their
>> website. The original bypass restrictor is still installed, with a
>> 3/4" hole; the thermostat plunger is 11/16". It acts like there is
>> water in the engine that does not get circulated until you shut the
>> engine off. Hot water violently flows into the overflow tank and
> the
>> water temperature instantly raises 30F. When you start the engine
>> everything acts normal. You can feel the water start to flow in
> the
>> tube at 180F, radiator warms up, fans turn on and the temperature
> holds
>> perfect for a while. Then the temperature slowly climbs. Driving
> the
>> car, the temperature will slowly climb higher, maybe 210F. The two
>> radiator fan temperature switches work as they should, but they are
> not
>> detecting this hot water. When I filled the system, the bleeder on
> top
>> of the radiator was open with 3 ft of clear tubing to get it higher
>> than the block and tanks. The temperature sender in the top of the
>> block was removed until coolant flowed out (wish I had added
> tubing).
>> Tried raising the back, then tried raising the front while topping
> off
>> the tank. The leaking pump that I replaced was a Wieland and it was
> not
>> drilled for the bypass circuit, the thermostat was a Gates 180 that
> I
>> installed 30 years ago. Radiator is a 3-pass aluminum with two
> large
>> pusher fans. What is the best method for filling the system to
> prevent
>> trapped air? Are there other things that I need to check?
>> _______________________________________________
>> 
>> 
>> Detomaso Email List is not managed by POCA
>> Posted emails must not exceed 1.5 Megabytes
>> DeTomaso mailing list
>> DeTomaso at server.detomasolist.com
>> 
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> 
> <thermostat.JPG>