[DeTomaso] To sleeve or not to sleeve

[jderyke at aol.com]

The real weak spot in a 351-C block is the lower edges of the cylinders where the bores cut deeply into the main bearing supports. In the early days with a supercharged Cleveland or those with heavy nitrous loads, the blocks used to occasionally split horizontally! (over-muscled 302s used to split vertically, as Bob Benson found). That's why many builders avoid sleeving more than one cylinder on each side of many Ford blocks. 
Too late, I extensively sonic-checked a block after it cracked a 0.030"-overbore @11: 1 c.r. I then autocrossed the single-sleeve Cleveland for years after (with a more conservative 10:1 c.r.) with no further issues.  If you drive carefully, I think about any combination will work. If you abuse a multi-sleeve 351-C that's pumped up, expect trouble. YMMV....


-----Original Message-----
From: Will Kooiman <will.kooiman at gmail.com>
To: Ken Green <kenn_green at yahoo.com>; 'Dan' <dan at excaliburre.com>; detomaso at server.detomasolist.com <detomaso at server.detomasolist.com>; Charles Engles <cengles at cox.net>
Sent: Sun, Nov 6, 2022 3:39 am
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] To sleeve or not to sleeve

How about the cost?

If you have a .030 block with 1-2 damaged cylinders and if you are happy with your .030 pistons, just do 2 sleeves.

If you go back to standard, you have to buy 8 pistons, plus you need to rebalance, and for what?

What if you sonic test, and 2 more cylinders are thin?

If I had a machinist I trusted, I would be okay with 8 sleeves.

I didn't do that.  Instead, I went with a 9.2" deck Dart block.  Yes, I had to switch to a Windsor oil pan, oil pump, fuel pump, water pump, cam, and distributor gear (dist is the same, only the gear is different).  But the Dart block is so much better, it's amazing.


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   The real weak spot in a 351-C block is the lower edges of the cylinders
   where the bores cut deeply into the main bearing supports. In the early
   days with a supercharged Cleveland or those with heavy nitrous loads,
   the blocks used to occasionally split horizontally! (over-muscled 302s
   used to split vertically, as Bob Benson found). That's why many
   builders avoid sleeving more than one cylinder on each side of
   many Ford blocks.
   Too late, I extensively sonic-checked a block after it cracked a
   0.030"-overbore @11: 1 c.r. I then autocrossed the single-sleeve
   Cleveland for years after (with a more conservative 10:1 c.r.) with no
   further issues.  If you drive carefully, I think about any combination
   will work. If you abuse a multi-sleeve 351-C that's pumped up, expect
   trouble. YMMV....
   -----Original Message-----
   From: Will Kooiman <will.kooiman at gmail.com>
   To: Ken Green <kenn_green at yahoo.com>; 'Dan' <dan at excaliburre.com>;
   detomaso at server.detomasolist.com <detomaso at server.detomasolist.com>;
   Charles Engles <cengles at cox.net>
   Sent: Sun, Nov 6, 2022 3:39 am
   Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] To sleeve or not to sleeve
   How about the cost?
   If you have a .030 block with 1-2 damaged cylinders and if you are
   happy with your .030 pistons, just do 2 sleeves.
   If you go back to standard, you have to buy 8 pistons, plus you need to
   rebalance, and for what?
   What if you sonic test, and 2 more cylinders are thin?
   If I had a machinist I trusted, I would be okay with 8 sleeves.
   I didn't do that.  Instead, I went with a 9.2" deck Dart block.  Yes, I
   had to switch to a Windsor oil pan, oil pump, fuel pump, water pump,
   cam, and distributor gear (dist is the same, only the gear is
   different).  But the Dart block is so much better, it's amazing.
   i>>?