[DeTomaso] Radiator

[Mike Drew]

Bill,

The orifice in the pressed-in plate is supposed to be slightly larger than the hat on the thermostat, for very specific reasons. Was your block missing that pressed-in plate with the radiused hole in the center? If the entire plate is missing, that’s doom. Sometimes when an engine block is hot-tanked they will remove it and forget to put it back. The result is that a substantial percentage of the water then circulates in the engine and never travels forward to the radiator. 

The current Robertshaw thermostats come with a replacement plate whose orifice is smaller than stock. I suppose it works okay as long as it is perfectly centered under the thermostat. If there is any offset at all, the thermostat can stick open which will prevent the engine from warming up properly when cold (it will take much longer).  The stock plate’s larger hole prevents this.

I don’t think Eric actually has a problem yet. He is screwing car together after it sat for 30 years, complete with a killer new engine, and is hoping to ward off any troubles before they begin.

Mike

Sent from my iPad

> On May 20, 2022, at 11:12, bill gaino <gaino at earthlink.net> wrote:
> 
> I went through this for over 10 years and I did everything execpt inspect the orifice plate UNDER the thermostat, Mine was mismatched and the hole was too big for the Robert Shaw thermosat . I got the correct size orifice and all my problems went away!  After I spent aboyt 1500$ on all other upgrades.  I bet you, this is Erics problem.
>  
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> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mike Drew 
> Sent: May 20, 2022 12:57 PM
> To: Eric Smith 
> Cc: 
> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Radiator
>  
> Eric,
>  
> Don’t wrap the headers. Header wrap works to keep heat trapped inside, but is designed for disposable headers—it wrecks them. Your coating is all you need.
>  
> I would argue that nobody who has improved their cooling system, by any of the readily available means, has been disappointed with the results. Hall Pantera was the pioneer and uses a heavy-duty (and heavy) brass radiator with standard inlets and fan temp switch setup, intended to be used with stock-style pusher fans. They also sell very expensive but excellent replacement fans which are far more effective than stock. This is the simplest setup to implement and works great.
>  
> Several other vendors such as Pantera Parts Connection, PI Motorsports and Panteras by Wilkinson offer Fluidyne aluminum radiators, which also work extremely well. They can be had for stock replacement orientation, or laid down and fitted with sucker fans. They are considerably lighter than the Hall radiator. If you pick up a rock and spring a leak, unlike the Hall radiator, they can’t be repaired so must go into the trash and be replaced at high cost.
>  
> Pantera Performance Center sells an ultra-sexy setup featuring a Ron Davis aluminum radiator, aluminum shroud and sucker fans. Probably the most expensive option, it’s also engineered as a plug-and-play package. I don’t know if the radiator can be repaired in the event of a leak. I had a Ron Davis radiator get mangled by an errant fan blade on my Cobra and had to replace it.
>  
> You really can’t go wrong with any of these options. They all work really well. The most important thing is to ensure the system is properly bled of any air. Oh, and of course ensure you are using a proper 351C thermostat. I would guess that 90% of “Pantera overheating problems” are in fact caused by owner buffoonery, in the form of air in the system or wrong thermostat, or both.
>  
> Even the stock cooling system works quite well if properly maintained. The stock fans are a little underpowered and age does them no favors. But I’ve driven plenty of cars with completely stock cooling systems that performed perfectly.
>  
> Mike
>  
> Sent from my iPad
>  
>> On May 20, 2022, at 09:42, Eric Smith wrote:
>> 
>> Mike,
>> I’m not super interested in weight savings or bling, I just want the best cooling system possible to keep it from overheating. It will have a 406 cu in, with about 10.85 compression, so it will put some heat out. I did have the headers ceramic coated, and I may wrap them as well to try and keep the engine compartment as cool as possible. I’m replacing the tubes as well. Throwing everything at it that I can to keep it cool.
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>>> On May 20, 2022, at 12:28 PM, Mike Drew wrote:
>>> 
>>> Eric,
>>> 
>>> Honestly there is no ‘best’ solution. All of them offer tradeoffs, such as high vs low cost, weight, durability, or simplicity. They all offer about the same level of improved cooling.
>>> 
>>> Other than the obvious desire to run cool, what are your ambitions? Are you a light weight fanatic? Are you cost-conscious? Are you seeking to preserve the stock architecture using upgraded components in the name of simplicity? Are you looking for sexy bling to show off? Are you concerned about durability and the ability to repair vs replace the radiator in the event of rock damage?
>>> 
>>> More info from you can help shape the recommendations you will receive….
>>> 
>>> Mike
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPad
>>> 
>>>>> On May 20, 2022, at 09:18, Eric Smith via DeTomaso wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> About to install the drivetrain in my 71. I had overheating issues since I’ve owned the car, but it’s been 30 yrs since it was last on the road. What is the best cooling system made to make sure this issue never happens again?
>>>> 
>>>> Sent from my iPhone
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