[DeTomaso] Pantera shift linkage modification

Larry Stock larrys at panteraparts.com
Fri Mar 25 11:55:24 EDT 2022


I believe that you are wasting your time Dan.
We had a 71 Pantera here that we fought with not getting either 5Th or reverse on. Finally noticed that DeTomaso listed in their parts list an engine mount spacer that was 3/16" tall. We put that in under the engine mount base and everything worked perfectly. If 3/16" engine alignment makes that much difference, I hold no hope for you except using the cable shifter approach.
Larry

On 3/25/22, 12:25 AM, "DeTomaso on behalf of dan" <detomaso-bounces at server.detomasolist.com on behalf of dan at excaliburre.com> wrote:

       I'm going to first try a smaller outside diameter U joint with an inset
       set screw.

       I believe there are some manufacturers.


       Next, try raising the shift rods and using a lateral rod support/heim
       joint connected to the rear of the head or the bellhousing.

       This would also make for a level rod assembly, rather than the current
       down/up which feels like it would create cleaner shifting geometry.

       Also, anchoring to the engine / transaxle should reduce the flex on
       torque, turns and hole-shots, which is how I prefer to drive a Pantera.


       Next, if necessary, taking one inch off the front shift rod and getting
       a longer middle rod (unless I get lucky and have enough adjustmentent
       at the turnbuckle).

       This would be great because the U joint would stop 1/2" before hitting
       the engine bay.


       Or maybe all three?


       Dan



       Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone



       -------- Original message --------

       From: bill gaino <[1]gaino at earthlink.net>

       Date: 3/24/22 5:33 AM (GMT-08:00)

       To: [2]dan at excaliburre.com

       Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Pantera shift linkage modification


       Dan, Perhaps you could rotate the U joint away from the block, the bolt
       head.  Remove some of the bolt head?  Extent the Trunion? 6 inches it a
       major change. I suggest only enough clearence to clear the obsticcle.
       Maybe even grind the block?   I had to make some adjustents to linkage
       changing from a dash 1 to a 2
       Bill 1362
       [3]https://www.facebook.com/pages/slickpaintcom/129049637149634?ref=ts&
       fref=ts
       If you want it slick. [4]www.slickpaint.com like us on facebook
       -----Original Message-----
       From:
       Sent: Mar 24, 2022 1:27 AM
       To:
       Subject: [DeTomaso] Pantera shift linkage modification

       I have a tricky situation with the shift linkage on "The Beast".

       Shifting into 3rd the U joint bolt hits the side of the engine bay and
       keeps
       knocking it out of adjustment.

       I can't move it to the right because going into 2nd and 4th the shifter
       rod
       hits the bellhousing.

       I have to fight to get into any of those gears.

       This is likely because of the modifications made to convert to the SBC.

       I'm going to try and raise the shift rod about six inches to get into a
       wider gap.

       I'd have to move the eyebolt from the frame to a connection point on
       either
       the bellhousing or the back of the cylinder head. I wonder if anyone
       has
       tried this before?

       It seems to make sense having the shift rod anchored to the engine
       since the
       flexing under torque in a racecar moves the engine, which the transaxle
       is
       obviously attached to, so the shift linkage would move with the engine
       and
       transaxle.

       Also, this would keep the shift rod level between the shifter and the
       transaxle, rather than dipping down to the frame, and then back upwards
       to
       the transaxle.

       Make sense?



       Dan




       I have a tricky situation with the shift linkage on "The Beast".

       Shifting into 3^rd the U joint bolt hits the side of the engine bay and
       keeps knocking it out of adjustment.

       I can't move it to the right because going into 2^nd and 4^th the
       shifter rod hits the bellhousing.

       I have to fight to get into any of those gears.

       This is likely because of the modifications made to convert to the SBC.

       I'm going to try and raise the shift rod about six inches to get into a
       wider gap.

       I'd have to move the eyebolt from the frame to a connection point on
       either the bellhousing or the back of the cylinder head. I wonder if
       anyone has tried this before?

       It seems to make sense having the shift rod anchored to the engine
       since the flexing under torque in a racecar moves the engine, which the
       transaxle is obviously attached to, so the shift linkage would move
       with the engine and transaxle.

       Also, this would keep the shift rod level between the shifter and the
       transaxle, rather than dipping down to the frame, and then back upwards
       to the transaxle.

       Make sense?


       Dan

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    References

       1. mailto:gaino at earthlink.net
       2. mailto:dan at excaliburre.com
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