[DeTomaso] Pantera shift linkage modification

Fri Mar 25 03:25:54 EDT 2022

I'm going to first try a smaller outside diameter U joint with an inset set screw.

I believe there are some manufacturers. 

Next, try raising the shift rods and using a lateral rod support/heim joint connected to the rear of the head or the bellhousing.

This would also make for a level rod assembly, rather than the current down/up which feels like it would create cleaner shifting geometry.

Also, anchoring to the engine / transaxle should reduce the flex on torque, turns and hole-shots, which is how I prefer to drive a Pantera.

Next, if necessary, taking one inch off the front shift rod and getting a longer middle rod (unless I get lucky and have enough adjustmentent at the turnbuckle).

This would be great because the U joint would stop 1/2" before hitting the engine bay.

Or maybe all three?

Dan

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

-------- Original message --------

From: bill gaino <gaino at earthlink.net <mailto:gaino at earthlink.net> > 

Date: 3/24/22 5:33 AM (GMT-08:00) 

To: dan at excaliburre.com <mailto:dan at excaliburre.com>  

Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Pantera shift linkage modification 

Dan, Perhaps you could rotate the U joint away from the block, the bolt head.  Remove some of the bolt head?  Extent the Trunion? 6 inches it a major change. I suggest only enough clearence to clear the obsticcle. Maybe even grind the block?   I had to make some adjustents to linkage changing from a dash 1 to a 2
Bill 1362
https://www.facebook.com/pages/slickpaintcom/129049637149634?ref=ts <https://www.facebook.com/pages/slickpaintcom/129049637149634?ref=ts&fref=ts> &fref=ts
If you want it slick. www.slickpaint.com <http://www.slickpaint.com>  like us on facebook
-----Original Message-----
From: 
Sent: Mar 24, 2022 1:27 AM
To: 
Subject: [DeTomaso] Pantera shift linkage modification

I have a tricky situation with the shift linkage on "The Beast".

Shifting into 3rd the U joint bolt hits the side of the engine bay and keeps
knocking it out of adjustment.

I can't move it to the right because going into 2nd and 4th the shifter rod
hits the bellhousing.

I have to fight to get into any of those gears.

This is likely because of the modifications made to convert to the SBC.

I'm going to try and raise the shift rod about six inches to get into a
wider gap.

I'd have to move the eyebolt from the frame to a connection point on either
the bellhousing or the back of the cylinder head. I wonder if anyone has
tried this before?

It seems to make sense having the shift rod anchored to the engine since the
flexing under torque in a racecar moves the engine, which the transaxle is
obviously attached to, so the shift linkage would move with the engine and
transaxle.

Also, this would keep the shift rod level between the shifter and the
transaxle, rather than dipping down to the frame, and then back upwards to
the transaxle.

Make sense?

Dan

I have a tricky situation with the shift linkage on "The Beast".

Shifting into 3^rd the U joint bolt hits the side of the engine bay and
keeps knocking it out of adjustment.

I can't move it to the right because going into 2^nd and 4^th the
shifter rod hits the bellhousing.

I have to fight to get into any of those gears.

This is likely because of the modifications made to convert to the SBC.

I'm going to try and raise the shift rod about six inches to get into a
wider gap.

I'd have to move the eyebolt from the frame to a connection point on
either the bellhousing or the back of the cylinder head. I wonder if
anyone has tried this before?

It seems to make sense having the shift rod anchored to the engine
since the flexing under torque in a racecar moves the engine, which the
transaxle is obviously attached to, so the shift linkage would move
with the engine and transaxle.

Also, this would keep the shift rod level between the shifter and the
transaxle, rather than dipping down to the frame, and then back upwards
to the transaxle.

Make sense?

Dan

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-------------- next part --------------
   I'm going to first try a smaller outside diameter U joint with an inset
   set screw.

   I believe there are some manufacturers.

   Next, try raising the shift rods and using a lateral rod support/heim
   joint connected to the rear of the head or the bellhousing.

   This would also make for a level rod assembly, rather than the current
   down/up which feels like it would create cleaner shifting geometry.

   Also, anchoring to the engine / transaxle should reduce the flex on
   torque, turns and hole-shots, which is how I prefer to drive a Pantera.

   Next, if necessary, taking one inch off the front shift rod and getting
   a longer middle rod (unless I get lucky and have enough adjustmentent
   at the turnbuckle).

   This would be great because the U joint would stop 1/2" before hitting
   the engine bay.

   Or maybe all three?

   Dan

   Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

   -------- Original message --------

   From: bill gaino <[1]gaino at earthlink.net>

   Date: 3/24/22 5:33 AM (GMT-08:00)

   To: [2]dan at excaliburre.com

   Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Pantera shift linkage modification

   Dan, Perhaps you could rotate the U joint away from the block, the bolt
   head.  Remove some of the bolt head?  Extent the Trunion? 6 inches it a
   major change. I suggest only enough clearence to clear the obsticcle.
   Maybe even grind the block?   I had to make some adjustents to linkage
   changing from a dash 1 to a 2
   Bill 1362
   [3]https://www.facebook.com/pages/slickpaintcom/129049637149634?ref=ts&
   fref=ts
   If you want it slick. [4]www.slickpaint.com like us on facebook
   -----Original Message-----
   From:
   Sent: Mar 24, 2022 1:27 AM
   To:
   Subject: [DeTomaso] Pantera shift linkage modification

   I have a tricky situation with the shift linkage on "The Beast".

   Shifting into 3rd the U joint bolt hits the side of the engine bay and
   keeps
   knocking it out of adjustment.

   I can't move it to the right because going into 2nd and 4th the shifter
   rod
   hits the bellhousing.

   I have to fight to get into any of those gears.

   This is likely because of the modifications made to convert to the SBC.

   I'm going to try and raise the shift rod about six inches to get into a
   wider gap.

   I'd have to move the eyebolt from the frame to a connection point on
   either
   the bellhousing or the back of the cylinder head. I wonder if anyone
   has
   tried this before?

   It seems to make sense having the shift rod anchored to the engine
   since the
   flexing under torque in a racecar moves the engine, which the transaxle
   is
   obviously attached to, so the shift linkage would move with the engine
   and
   transaxle.

   Also, this would keep the shift rod level between the shifter and the
   transaxle, rather than dipping down to the frame, and then back upwards
   to
   the transaxle.

   Make sense?

   Dan

   I have a tricky situation with the shift linkage on "The Beast".

   Shifting into 3^rd the U joint bolt hits the side of the engine bay and
   keeps knocking it out of adjustment.

   I can't move it to the right because going into 2^nd and 4^th the
   shifter rod hits the bellhousing.

   I have to fight to get into any of those gears.

   This is likely because of the modifications made to convert to the SBC.

   I'm going to try and raise the shift rod about six inches to get into a
   wider gap.

   I'd have to move the eyebolt from the frame to a connection point on
   either the bellhousing or the back of the cylinder head. I wonder if
   anyone has tried this before?

   It seems to make sense having the shift rod anchored to the engine
   since the flexing under torque in a racecar moves the engine, which the
   transaxle is obviously attached to, so the shift linkage would move
   with the engine and transaxle.

   Also, this would keep the shift rod level between the shifter and the
   transaxle, rather than dipping down to the frame, and then back upwards
   to the transaxle.

   Make sense?

   Dan

   _______________________________________________

   Detomaso Email List is not managed by POCA
   Posted emails must not exceed 1.5 Megabytes
   DeTomaso mailing list
   [5]DeTomaso at server.detomasolist.com
   [6]http://server.detomasolist.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso

   To manage your subscription (change email address, unsubscribe, etc.)
   use the links above.

   Members who post to this list grant license to the list to forward any
   message posted here to all past, current, or future members of the
   list. They also grant the list owner permission to maintain an archive
   or approve the archiving of list messages.

References

   1. mailto:gaino at earthlink.net
   2. mailto:dan at excaliburre.com
   3. https://www.facebook.com/pages/slickpaintcom/129049637149634?ref=ts&fref=ts
   4. http://www.slickpaint.com/
   5. mailto:DeTomaso at server.detomasolist.com
   6. http://server.detomasolist.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso