[DeTomaso] Any issues with running positive and ground for EFI through the center counsel?

Will Kooiman will.kooiman at gmail.com
Tue Jul 28 08:50:37 EDT 2020


Hi Ken,

When I had my car apart, I went through all of the wiring.

The long cable from the amp gauge to the alternator was corroded - inside the insulation.   I don’t remember why I removed the insulation.  I had to have a reason.  I wouldn’t have done it out of curiosity.

I ended up moving the battery to the engine compartment, behind the passenger seat area.  Best decision I've made in a long time.  It cranks like nobody's business.  It was simple and removed lots of old crusty wiring.

I have 2 studs mounted to the firewall.  One is battery positive.  One is 12v, key on.  Plus, I welded a bolt to the frame for a solid ground. 

My point is I agree with Thomas.  As finicky as EFI can be, I would go straight to the alternator with new wires.

Will.


On 7/28/20, 12:59 AM, "DeTomaso on behalf of Thomas Törnblom" <detomaso-bounces at server.detomasolist.com on behalf of thomas at hax.se> wrote:

       The +12V at the alternator should be as stable as the battery and will
       be the shortest route to running power.

       Do you have the ammeter installed? If so, nothing but the starter relay
       should be connected directly to the battery, or the battery wire on the
       starter relay or else the ammeter will show erroneous readings. You
       will feed the EFI through the meter when running if wired to the
       battery.

       Thomas

         28 juli 2020 kl. 06:38 skrev Ken Green <kenn_green at yahoo.com>:

       I thought about going to the starter, but it seems like there could be
       voltage//current fluctuations when the engine is cranking?  Maybe the
       same with the alternator?
       Ken
       On Monday, July 27, 2020, 8:14:14 PM PDT, Thomas Toernblom
       <thomas at hax.se> wrote:
       I take power to the EFI from the alternator.
       After all, it is the alternator that ultimately supply all power and
       taking power from the battery will make the ammeter show the EFI
       current incorrectly as charging.
       If you really want to use battery power you can take that from the
       battery cable on the starter relay, but it is wrong in my opinion.
       Thomas
       > 28 juli 2020 kl. 03:52 skrev Ken Green via DeTomaso
       <[1]detomaso at server.detomasolist.com>:
       >
       >   One wire in the FAST wire harness had a relay and fuse.  I built a
       >  custom relay panel and will just add a dedicated relay and fuse to
       it
       >  to keep all the relays and fuses together.  I dropped the battery,
       and
       >  the panel is mounted to the bulkhead just above the battery.
       >
       >  On Monday, July 27, 2020, 6:42:26 PM PDT, Dave Londry
       >  <[2]davel at trguys.com> wrote:
       >    And you're thinking a relay and a fuse?
       >    Dave
       >    On 2020-07-27 6:37 p.m., Ken Green via DeTomaso wrote:
       >    I have 6 dedicated wires from the battery to the ECU, which will
       be
       >    mounted to the fire wall behind the passenger seat.  They are all
       >  power
       >    or ground, not signals.  I'd like to just run them in a jacket
       >  through
       >    the center counsel, tying them away from the ZF linkage.  Anyone
       see
       >    any problem with this?
       >    Thanks,
       >    Ken
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