[DeTomaso] Any issues with running positive and ground for EFI through the center counsel?
Ken Green
kenn_green at yahoo.com
Tue Jul 28 11:34:22 EDT 2020
I wasn't real comfortable with an amp meter and all the current under the dashboard, and have a new Denso high amp alternator and volt meter.
I would have thought that the amp meter would be very low output cranking and all the current would have to come from the battery?
I know if I ask FAST they will say it has to be the way they recommend, but I can ask a couple other "experts" LOL
Thanks for the suggestions.
Ken
On Monday, July 27, 2020, 9:59:33 PM PDT, Thomas Törnblom <thomas at hax.se> wrote:
The +12V at the alternator should be as stable as the battery and will
be the shortest route to running power.
Do you have the ammeter installed? If so, nothing but the starter relay
should be connected directly to the battery, or the battery wire on the
starter relay or else the ammeter will show erroneous readings. You
will feed the EFI through the meter when running if wired to the
battery.
Thomas
28 juli 2020 kl. 06:38 skrev Ken Green <kenn_green at yahoo.com>:
I thought about going to the starter, but it seems like there could be
voltage//current fluctuations when the engine is cranking? Maybe the
same with the alternator?
Ken
On Monday, July 27, 2020, 8:14:14 PM PDT, Thomas Toernblom
<thomas at hax.se> wrote:
I take power to the EFI from the alternator.
After all, it is the alternator that ultimately supply all power and
taking power from the battery will make the ammeter show the EFI
current incorrectly as charging.
If you really want to use battery power you can take that from the
battery cable on the starter relay, but it is wrong in my opinion.
Thomas
> 28 juli 2020 kl. 03:52 skrev Ken Green via DeTomaso
<[1]detomaso at server.detomasolist.com>:
>
> One wire in the FAST wire harness had a relay and fuse. I built a
> custom relay panel and will just add a dedicated relay and fuse to
it
> to keep all the relays and fuses together. I dropped the battery,
and
> the panel is mounted to the bulkhead just above the battery.
>
> On Monday, July 27, 2020, 6:42:26 PM PDT, Dave Londry
> <[2]davel at trguys.com> wrote:
> And you're thinking a relay and a fuse?
> Dave
> On 2020-07-27 6:37 p.m., Ken Green via DeTomaso wrote:
> I have 6 dedicated wires from the battery to the ECU, which will
be
> mounted to the fire wall behind the passenger seat. They are all
> power
> or ground, not signals. I'd like to just run them in a jacket
> through
> the center counsel, tying them away from the ZF linkage. Anyone
see
> any problem with this?
> Thanks,
> Ken
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-------------- next part --------------
I wasn't real comfortable with an amp meter and all the current under
the dashboard, and have a new Denso high amp alternator and volt meter.
I would have thought that the amp meter would be very low output
cranking and all the current would have to come from the battery?
I know if I ask FAST they will say it has to be the way they recommend,
but I can ask a couple other "experts" LOL
Thanks for the suggestions.
Ken
On Monday, July 27, 2020, 9:59:33 PM PDT, Thomas TAP:rnblom
<thomas at hax.se> wrote:
The +12V at the alternator should be as stable as the battery and
will
be the shortest route to running power.
Do you have the ammeter installed? If so, nothing but the starter
relay
should be connected directly to the battery, or the battery wire on
the
starter relay or else the ammeter will show erroneous readings. You
will feed the EFI through the meter when running if wired to the
battery.
Thomas
28 juli 2020 kl. 06:38 skrev Ken Green <[1]kenn_green at yahoo.com>:
I thought about going to the starter, but it seems like there could
be
voltage//current fluctuations when the engine is cranking? Maybe the
same with the alternator?
Ken
On Monday, July 27, 2020, 8:14:14 PM PDT, Thomas Toernblom
<[2]thomas at hax.se> wrote:
I take power to the EFI from the alternator.
After all, it is the alternator that ultimately supply all power and
taking power from the battery will make the ammeter show the EFI
current incorrectly as charging.
If you really want to use battery power you can take that from the
battery cable on the starter relay, but it is wrong in my opinion.
Thomas
> 28 juli 2020 kl. 03:52 skrev Ken Green via DeTomaso
<[1][3]detomaso at server.detomasolist.com>:
>
> One wire in the FAST wire harness had a relay and fuse. I built a
> custom relay panel and will just add a dedicated relay and fuse to
it
> to keep all the relays and fuses together. I dropped the battery,
and
> the panel is mounted to the bulkhead just above the battery.
>
> On Monday, July 27, 2020, 6:42:26 PM PDT, Dave Londry
> <[2][4]davel at trguys.com> wrote:
> And you're thinking a relay and a fuse?
> Dave
> On 2020-07-27 6:37 p.m., Ken Green via DeTomaso wrote:
> I have 6 dedicated wires from the battery to the ECU, which will
be
> mounted to the fire wall behind the passenger seat. They are
all
> power
> or ground, not signals. I'd like to just run them in a jacket
> through
> the center counsel, tying them away from the ZF linkage. Anyone
see
> any problem with this?
> Thanks,
> Ken
> _______________________________________________
> Detomaso Email List is not managed by POCA
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> use the li
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> osted here to all past, current, or future members of the list.
They
> also grant
> the list owner permission to maintain an archive or approve the
> archiving of lis
> t messages.
> --
> Dave Londry
> TRGuys.com
> [3][3][5][7]davel at trguys.com
> Cell 604-721-2278
> Skype embeddedspaces
> References
> 1. mailto:[4][6][8]DeTomaso at server.detomasolist.com
> 2.
[5][7][9]http://server.detomasolist.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso
> 3. mailto:[6][8][10]davel at trguys.com
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