[DeTomaso] Pantera Tach Shows 0 at Cold Idle

Mike Reilly reillyms at live.com
Wed Dec 30 11:58:37 EST 2020


Hi all.  Thanks for the input.  I suspect a ground issue somewhere in the circuit which I’ll try to run down.  Although I did try giving the tach it’s own ground wire but that didn’t change the behavior.  I did install a new fuse box and ignition switch controller (ISC) from Jon Haas so I may have caused some grounding issue as I moved wires around.  I did trouble shoot with Jon months ago but all his products seemed to be working as designed.  It was doing this before I switch to the new fuse box.  I was hoping the new fuse box would help.  It hadn’t done it before the ISC was installed but I also had a no start issue then due to a bad ignition switch.  So I was touching lots of wiring then.

I’ll have some detective work to do here and may need to trace the circuit and check everything as folks have suggested.  I’ll probably reach out to Jon for any further suggestions as well.  Fun with decades old wiring : )

Dennis, I have a DuraSpark distributor and electronic ignition system that’s been in the car since 1992 and it didn’t require a tach adaptor.  I only recently had this problem come up so I don’t think it’s my ignition system : (

Thanks, Mike

From: dennis617 at aol.com<mailto:dennis617 at aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 30, 2020 6:44 AM
To: reillyms at live.com<mailto:reillyms at live.com>; detomaso at server.detomasolist.com<mailto:detomaso at server.detomasolist.com>
Subject: RE: [DeTomaso] Pantera Tach Shows 0 at Cold Idle


Hi Mike,

I've been having a similar problem with my tach, although, I've never tried the the window switch trick.  When my car sits idle for a long period I find that my tach stops working until I drive it for a few minutes or if it gets a chance to really warm up.  I haven't solved the problem yet, but I suspect that it is the tach adapter that was installed when the engine was totally redone and I changed over to the FAST EZ 2.0 EFI and a mallory ignition system.  I never had any problems with my tach until the adapter was added to the system.  Are you using an adapter as well?

Dennis


On Tuesday, December 29, 2020 Mike Reilly <reillyms at live.com> wrote:
  Hi all.  I've been having a weird tach problem for a few months now.
  When I cold start the car the tach sits at zero but will respond when I
  give it gas and go to 2000 RPMs for example.  When I let off the gas it
  goes back to zero yet the car is idling fine at around 900 RPMs.  Now
  when I push up on both window switches then the tach will respond and
  read at idle speed but when I let go of the window switches the tach
  goes back to zero.  However, once the car is warmed up then the tach
  works fine and shows idle speed etc. without ever going down to zero
  unless the motor is turned off.  If I restart the car when warm the
  tack works fine.  I think somehow I'm not getting enough voltage to the
  tack when the car is cold.


  Videos of the problem:
    * Cold start and playing with the windows (you can hear me describing
      what I'm doing near the end of this video)
      ([1]https://youtu.be/yIFtsp0ljzk<https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fyoutu.be%2FyIFtsp0ljzk&data=04%7C01%7C%7Cf5ad5439d0804304ac2808d8acd176ac%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637449362925781170%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=oArOd%2BUyxza6sQUyDcErITtVE2O1k00C8T9oHGD0N6Y%3D&reserved=0>)
    * Example of revving the motor when cold
      ([2]https://youtu.be/kWaRfGfj2HU<https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fyoutu.be%2FkWaRfGfj2HU&data=04%7C01%7C%7Cf5ad5439d0804304ac2808d8acd176ac%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637449362925791167%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=z4RrWM5bC0Wphu7C9mk5Pu%2FtpeTEu7m%2BOBlsF%2BiT3Y4%3D&reserved=0>)
    * Warm running and every thing works fine
      ([3]https://youtu.be/X1RY4VwmSmA<https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fyoutu.be%2FX1RY4VwmSmA&data=04%7C01%7C%7Cf5ad5439d0804304ac2808d8acd176ac%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637449362925801158%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=vC6ux7G%2F%2F6JXPilQt1CrS5iMz2rQ9Y3kBC%2BHgruBy68%3D&reserved=0>)


  Jon Haas rebuilt my tach as I thought that might have been the problem
  but it was doing this behavior both before and after Jon's rebuild.
  (By the way he does great work on rebuilds and found some cracked
  resistors in my tach that were about to fail).  I also converted to his
  new alternator to replace my stock rebuilt alternator thinking that
  would be the issue but the tach idle problem remained.  This new
  alternator has a built in voltage regulator.


  I measured the various voltages coming to the tach and per my comms
  with Jon these are correct voltages when the engine is running:
    * Voltage at the tach (+terminal) light blue wire = 14.84V
    * Voltage at the +coil wire = 14V
    * Voltage at the +Duraspark = 14V


  My Pantera is #7366 and is a 74L running a DuraSpark electronic
  ignition.  My battery is strong, new and kept on a trickle charger


  Any ideas as to why when the motor is cold the tach won't register at
  idle speed but does once the car is at operating temp?  It's also
  strange that it will come back to life when cold if I push up on both
  window switches when the windows are already closed thus adding some
  load to the car's electrical circuit.


  Thanks, Mike Reilly

References

  1. https://youtu.be/yIFtsp0ljzk<https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fyoutu.be%2FyIFtsp0ljzk&data=04%7C01%7C%7Cf5ad5439d0804304ac2808d8acd176ac%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637449362925801158%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=QFW1uIu52STY3da9GrCDzITfmin7O4EzhgPRsfqnMJA%3D&reserved=0>
  2. https://youtu.be/kWaRfGfj2HU<https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fyoutu.be%2FkWaRfGfj2HU&data=04%7C01%7C%7Cf5ad5439d0804304ac2808d8acd176ac%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637449362925811157%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=C6cjno%2BMdL1SXeJ5%2Bc3Auxl9yz6acZ8oFl3Z46VHkmI%3D&reserved=0>
  3. https://youtu.be/X1RY4VwmSmA<https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fyoutu.be%2FX1RY4VwmSmA&data=04%7C01%7C%7Cf5ad5439d0804304ac2808d8acd176ac%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637449362925821152%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=djUHBWVGhOozhgSp7CQgd9RXm2Py94EbDzXNAY5mGVs%3D&reserved=0>
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-------------- next part --------------
   Hi all.  Thanks for the input.  I suspect a ground issue somewhere in
   the circuit which I'll try to run down.  Although I did try giving the
   tach it's own ground wire but that didn't change the behavior.  I did
   install a new fuse box and ignition switch controller (ISC) from Jon
   Haas so I may have caused some grounding issue as I moved wires
   around.  I did trouble shoot with Jon months ago but all his products
   seemed to be working as designed.  It was doing this before I switch to
   the new fuse box.  I was hoping the new fuse box would help.  It hadn't
   done it before the ISC was installed but I also had a no start issue
   then due to a bad ignition switch.  So I was touching lots of wiring
   then.


   I'll have some detective work to do here and may need to trace the
   circuit and check everything as folks have suggested.  I'll probably
   reach out to Jon for any further suggestions as well.  Fun with decades
   old wiring : )


   Dennis, I have a DuraSpark distributor and electronic ignition system
   that's been in the car since 1992 and it didn't require a tach
   adaptor.  I only recently had this problem come up so I don't think
   it's my ignition system : (


   Thanks, Mike


   From: [1]dennis617 at aol.com
   Sent: Wednesday, December 30, 2020 6:44 AM
   To: [2]reillyms at live.com; [3]detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
   Subject: RE: [DeTomaso] Pantera Tach Shows 0 at Cold Idle


   Hi Mike,

   I've been having a similar problem with my tach, although, I've never
   tried the the window switch trick.  When my car sits idle for a long
   period I find that my tach stops working until I drive it for a few
   minutes or if it gets a chance to really warm up.  I haven't solved the
   problem yet, but I suspect that it is the tach adapter that was
   installed when the engine was totally redone and I changed over to the
   FAST EZ 2.0 EFI and a mallory ignition system.  I never had any
   problems with my tach until the adapter was added to the system.  Are
   you using an adapter as well?

   Dennis


   [cid:image002.png at 01D6DE89.F5A25270]

   On Tuesday, December 29, 2020 Mike Reilly <reillyms at live.com> wrote:

     Hi all.  I've been having a weird tach problem for a few months now.

     When I cold start the car the tach sits at zero but will respond when
   I

     give it gas and go to 2000 RPMs for example.  When I let off the gas
   it

     goes back to zero yet the car is idling fine at around 900 RPMs.  Now

     when I push up on both window switches then the tach will respond and

     read at idle speed but when I let go of the window switches the tach

     goes back to zero.  However, once the car is warmed up then the tach

     works fine and shows idle speed etc. without ever going down to zero

     unless the motor is turned off.  If I restart the car when warm the

     tack works fine.  I think somehow I'm not getting enough voltage to
   the

     tack when the car is cold.



     Videos of the problem:

       * Cold start and playing with the windows (you can hear me
   describing

         what I'm doing near the end of this video)

         ([1][4]https://youtu.be/yIFtsp0ljzk)

       * Example of revving the motor when cold

         ([2][5]https://youtu.be/kWaRfGfj2HU)

       * Warm running and every thing works fine

         ([3][6]https://youtu.be/X1RY4VwmSmA)



     Jon Haas rebuilt my tach as I thought that might have been the
   problem

     but it was doing this behavior both before and after Jon's rebuild.

     (By the way he does great work on rebuilds and found some cracked

     resistors in my tach that were about to fail).  I also converted to
   his

     new alternator to replace my stock rebuilt alternator thinking that

     would be the issue but the tach idle problem remained.  This new

     alternator has a built in voltage regulator.



     I measured the various voltages coming to the tach and per my comms

     with Jon these are correct voltages when the engine is running:

       * Voltage at the tach (+terminal) light blue wire = 14.84V

       * Voltage at the +coil wire = 14V

       * Voltage at the +Duraspark = 14V



     My Pantera is #7366 and is a 74L running a DuraSpark electronic

     ignition.  My battery is strong, new and kept on a trickle charger



     Any ideas as to why when the motor is cold the tach won't register at

     idle speed but does once the car is at operating temp?  It's also

     strange that it will come back to life when cold if I push up on both

     window switches when the windows are already closed thus adding some

     load to the car's electrical circuit.



     Thanks, Mike Reilly


   References


     1. [7]https://youtu.be/yIFtsp0ljzk

     2. [8]https://youtu.be/kWaRfGfj2HU

     3. [9]https://youtu.be/X1RY4VwmSmA

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References

   1. mailto:dennis617 at aol.com
   2. mailto:reillyms at live.com
   3. mailto:detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
   4. https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fyoutu.be%2FyIFtsp0ljzk&data=04%7C01%7C%7Cf5ad5439d0804304ac2808d8acd176ac%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637449362925781170%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=oArOd%2BUyxza6sQUyDcErITtVE2O1k00C8T9oHGD0N6Y%3D&reserved=0
   5. https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fyoutu.be%2FkWaRfGfj2HU&data=04%7C01%7C%7Cf5ad5439d0804304ac2808d8acd176ac%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637449362925791167%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=z4RrWM5bC0Wphu7C9mk5Pu%2FtpeTEu7m%2BOBlsF%2BiT3Y4%3D&reserved=0
   6. https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fyoutu.be%2FX1RY4VwmSmA&data=04%7C01%7C%7Cf5ad5439d0804304ac2808d8acd176ac%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637449362925801158%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=vC6ux7G%2F%2F6JXPilQt1CrS5iMz2rQ9Y3kBC%2BHgruBy68%3D&reserved=0
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