[DeTomaso] A/C for Phoenix needed

Christopher Kimball chrisvkimball at msn.com
Fri Oct 18 01:10:20 EDT 2019


When I first got my car I had the same problem.  I got a new radiator, replaced all my hoses and cooling tubes, and added a third, sucker fan with a Dakota Digital fan relay and sensor, and that made the car run at acceptable temps.  Then later I found someone had replaced the thermostat with one meant for a Windsor.  When I installed the Cleveland sensor, the car started running cool no matter what!

In my case if I just would have started by checking the thermostat I could have saved hundreds of dollars and hours of time...

Sincerely,

Chris


On October 17, 2019, at 6:22 PM, burrid1 at netzero.net wrote:

Thanks for the ideas and assistance. I've got a 160 degree thermostat in the block. After thermostat opens (can tell by warmth of radiator), the first fan starts at 180 degrees, and the second fan starts at 200 degrees. Problem is it keeps climbing to 220, then I've pulled off the freeway opened the hood and allowed it to start cooling back down to 190 (second fan shuts off). I've never tried to see if will max the gauge at 250 degrees. Note: I run a VDO electrical water temp gauge. Afraid to place condenser in front of radiator until I can keep the car close to 180 degrees. Thanks again for your help

---------- Original Message ----------
From: Julian Kift <julian_kift at hotmail.com>
To: "detomaso at server.detomasolist.com" <detomaso at server.detomasolist.com>, "burrid1 at netzero.net" <burrid1 at netzero.net>, Ken Green <kenn_green at yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] A/C for Phoenix needed
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2019 15:46:46 +0000


With the Phoenix radiator you have plenty of cooling capacity so a condenser in front of the radiator should not be an issue providing you have physical room. That said there's nothing wrong with a rear one in a functional system. I would thoroughly flush the evaporator with a solvent to remove traces of mineral oil (and any other hoses you plan to reuse) and reuse. Use  the correct orifice size on the expansion valve to match R12 or R134a and always install a new drier when the system is broken into. The comment on length of time to heat up is confusing, if you run a thermostat in the system it won't open unless the block is up to temperature, so amount of coolant in the system is somewhat irrelevant. Is your temperature sensor in the block or still in the expansion bottle?  JulianFrom: DeTomaso <detomaso-bounces at server.detomasolist.com> on behalf of Ken Green via DeTomaso <detomaso at server.detomasolist.com>
 Sent: Thursday, October 17, 2019 8:31 AM
 To: detomaso at server.detomasolist.com <detomaso at server.detomasolist.com>; burrid1 at netzero.net <burrid1 at netzero.net>
 Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] A/C for Phoenix needed Ask 10 people, get 15 different answers : )

     On Wednesday, October 16, 2019, 7:27:02 PM PDT, burrid1 at netzero.net <burrid1 at netzero.net> wrote:

    Getting ready for Phoenix and would like to have A/C.  1. Who makes
   best radiator and what fans should be used to keep car below 180 on
   hottest days?  2. Should A/C condensed be located in front or rear of
   car? If in front, before or behind radiator? 3. Should evaporator be
   replaced with new and where to purchase? 4. New compressor required and
   can R12 be used or should I purchase R134? Engine standard 351
   Cleveland. No hood vents on car and do not want to add. Presently
   running Hall's Phoenix radiator in laydown position with dual Spals but
   no shroud. Takes a long time to heat up because of the amount of water
   in the system but it does on 100 plus days in hour plus traffic. I plan
   to use R134 in new system. Anything I've missed?
 _______________________________________________


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-------------- next part --------------
   When I first got my car I had the same problem.  I got a new radiator,
   replaced all my hoses and cooling tubes, and added a third, sucker fan
   with a Dakota Digital fan relay and sensor, and that made the car run
   at acceptable temps.  Then later I found someone had replaced the
   thermostat with one meant for a Windsor.  When I installed the
   Cleveland sensor, the car started running cool no matter what!

   In my case if I just would have started by checking the thermostat I
   could have saved hundreds of dollars and hours of time...

   Sincerely,

   Chris
   On October 17, 2019, at 6:22 PM, burrid1 at netzero.net wrote:

   Thanks for the ideas and assistance. I've got a 160 degree thermostat
   in the block. After thermostat opens (can tell by warmth of radiator),
   the first fan starts at 180 degrees, and the second fan starts at 200
   degrees. Problem is it keeps climbing to 220, then I've pulled off the
   freeway opened the hood and allowed it to start cooling back down to
   190 (second fan shuts off). I've never tried to see if will max the
   gauge at 250 degrees. Note: I run a VDO electrical water temp gauge.
   Afraid to place condenser in front of radiator until I can keep the car
   close to 180 degrees. Thanks again for your help
   ---------- Original Message ----------
   From: Julian Kift <julian_kift at hotmail.com>
   To: "detomaso at server.detomasolist.com"
   <detomaso at server.detomasolist.com>, "burrid1 at netzero.net"
   <burrid1 at netzero.net>, Ken Green <kenn_green at yahoo.com>
   Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] A/C for Phoenix needed
   Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2019 15:46:46 +0000
   With the Phoenix radiator you have plenty of cooling capacity so a
   condenser in front of the radiator should not be an issue providing you
   have physical room. That said there's nothing wrong with a rear one in
   a functional system. I would thoroughly flush the evaporator with a
   solvent to remove traces of mineral oil (and any other hoses you plan
   to reuse) and reuse. Use  the correct orifice size on the expansion
   valve to match R12 or R134a and always install a new drier when the
   system is broken into. The comment on length of time to heat up is
   confusing, if you run a thermostat in the system it won't open unless
   the block is up to temperature, so amount of coolant in the system is
   somewhat irrelevant. Is your temperature sensor in the block or still
   in the expansion bottle?  JulianFrom: DeTomaso
   <detomaso-bounces at server.detomasolist.com> on behalf of Ken Green via
   DeTomaso <detomaso at server.detomasolist.com>
    Sent: Thursday, October 17, 2019 8:31 AM
    To: detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
   <detomaso at server.detomasolist.com>; burrid1 at netzero.net
   <burrid1 at netzero.net>
    Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] A/C for Phoenix needed Ask 10 people, get 15
   different answers : )

        On Wednesday, October 16, 2019, 7:27:02 PM PDT,
   burrid1 at netzero.net <burrid1 at netzero.net> wrote:

       Getting ready for Phoenix and would like to have A/C.  1. Who makes
      best radiator and what fans should be used to keep car below 180 on
      hottest days?  2. Should A/C condensed be located in front or rear
   of
      car? If in front, before or behind radiator? 3. Should evaporator be
      replaced with new and where to purchase? 4. New compressor required
   and
      can R12 be used or should I purchase R134? Engine standard 351
      Cleveland. No hood vents on car and do not want to add. Presently
      running Hall's Phoenix radiator in laydown position with dual Spals
   but
      no shroud. Takes a long time to heat up because of the amount of
   water
      in the system but it does on 100 plus days in hour plus traffic. I
   plan
      to use R134 in new system. Anything I've missed?
    _______________________________________________


    Detomaso Email List is not managed by POCA
    Posted emails must not exceed 1.5 Megabytes
    DeTomaso mailing list
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   or approve the archiving of list messages.

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