[DeTomaso] Non binding vote
Jerry Knotts
knottsj at galstar.com
Sat Mar 18 11:39:38 EDT 2017
The car as it sits and as I bought it is white with battleship gray
trim. The white seems to be old Emron that is fairly thick and will be
removed. I am building it to auction at some later point. The hood had
a fair amount of water drip rust and seemed to be easier to just
replace. The car sat in a shed for 10 years and sometimes had a tarp on
it. He had removed the intake and spark plugs for some unknown reason
so the motor was a required replacement and was built for a turbo set up
with 8,5 CR.
On 3/18/2017 10:26 AM, Julian Kift wrote:
>
> Here's my 2 cents;
>
>
> While you have the opportunity remove the other mods and not go half
> way at it. Getting it looking reasonably stock as a capable
> upgraded driver is the way to maximize your return, as anything else
> has to hit on personal taste of a potential buyer. Lots of photos
> during the restoration/bodywork to show prospective buyers the extent
> that you have gone to to remove rust etc. will help.
>
>
> We don't know what you have in the car or where you'd like to be, but
> I'm betting if you approached it from a pure return on investment
> calculation, spending the extra dollars to get it looking stock will
> give you the highest ROI and easiest sell.
>
>
> You have not mentioned what color you will paint it? You have that
> wide open (albeit a little more work to expose the pillars etc.) and
> you could even explore advertising it as color of choice and which
> allows prospective buyers to thoroughly inspect the bodywork prior to
> paint? That's an area I'd take more input on, I'm in two minds whether
> a finished car would sell better, but color choice should definitely
> be on the agenda for discussion. is the original color white?
>
>
> Why are you replacing the steel hood with a fiberglass one, that's
> just more expense? If the steel one is usable I'd stay with it, just
> paint the hood vents black.On that note I personally hate cars where
> everything is color coded one color, I'd put all the trim back to
> stock (or stain black to match the door/window trim) i.e. side marker
> bezels, bumpers, signal housings and give it some contrast again.
>
>
> I'd lose the mirrors and go with something more traditional like a
> Californian or Dodge Omni. If the budget ran to it I'd get some Campi
> wheels too, 7's and 8's can still be had for reasonable coin.
>
>
> That's probably more like 10 cents, but you get the gist.
>
>
> Julian
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* DeTomaso <detomaso-bounces at server.detomasolist.com> on behalf
> of Jerry Knotts <knottsj at galstar.com>
> *Sent:* Saturday, March 18, 2017 7:43 AM
> *To:* DeTomaso list new
> *Subject:* [DeTomaso] Non binding vote
> Looking to the collective for some advice.
>
> I have a car that I am getting ready to paint and will be reselling it
> after the paint and interior are finished.
>
> I have installed a new motor, clutch -etc. The body has two bad spots
> that will be repaired before painting. I has rust in the roof over the
> cross member in the engine compartment and a PO installed vents in the
> back deck which I will have removed. The affected areas will be rebuilt
> with metal and no fill. It is also getting the hood replaced with a
> fiber glass vented version from Bob Byers and a new windshield.
>
> The question is there are vent slats in the front fenders and NACA ducts
> in the lower quarters at the engine compartment. My body man/painter
> has offered to also remove these body mods during the repainting
> process. Painting, body work and interior fixes will be about 10k.
>
> Also I have a twin turbo set up to go on the car. It currently has a
> Demon 750 that runs great. The turbo set up is a Gail Banks 850 blow
> through carb with manifold and turbos. I am thinking that it will
> require opening up the rear fender wells for the exhaust. Don't know
> if it would add 5k value to the car if installed?
>
>
> The car has about 45K miles and I am looking to maximize the resale value.
>
> I have attached a photo of the car when I picked it up and it shows
> these particular body mods. The question is would it be worth it to pay
> extra to have these mods removed?
>
> Thoughts and opinions are welcome.
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> jerry knotts
>
-------------- next part --------------
The car as it sits and as I bought it is white with battleship gray
trim. The white seems to be old Emron that is fairly thick and will be
removed. I am building it to auction at some later point. The hood
had a fair amount of water drip rust and seemed to be easier to just
replace. The car sat in a shed for 10 years and sometimes had a tarp
on it. He had removed the intake and spark plugs for some unknown
reason so the motor was a required replacement and was built for a
turbo set up with 8,5 CR.
On 3/18/2017 10:26 AM, Julian Kift wrote:
Here's my 2 cents;
While you have the opportunity remove the other mods and not go half
way at it. Getting it looking reasonably stock as a capable
upgraded driver is the way to maximize your return, as anything else
has to hit on personal taste of a potential buyer. Lots of photos
during the restoration/bodywork to show prospective buyers the extent
that you have gone to to remove rust etc. will help.
We don't know what you have in the car or where you'd like to be, but
I'm betting if you approached it from a pure return on investment
calculation, spending the extra dollars to get it looking stock will
give you the highest ROI and easiest sell.
You have not mentioned what color you will paint it? You have that wide
open (albeit a little more work to expose the pillars etc.) and
you could even explore advertising it as color of choice and which
allows prospective buyers to thoroughly inspect the bodywork prior to
paint? That's an area I'd take more input on, I'm in two minds whether
a finished car would sell better, but color choice should definitely be
on the agenda for discussion. is the original color white?
Why are you replacing the steel hood with a fiberglass one, that's just
more expense? If the steel one is usable I'd stay with it, just paint
the hood vents black. On that note I personally hate cars where
everything is color coded one color, I'd put all the trim back to stock
(or stain black to match the door/window trim) i.e. side marker bezels,
bumpers, signal housings and give it some contrast again.
I'd lose the mirrors and go with something more traditional like a
Californian or Dodge Omni. If the budget ran to it I'd get some Campi
wheels too, 7's and 8's can still be had for reasonable coin.
That's probably more like 10 cents, but you get the gist.
Julian
__________________________________________________________________
From: DeTomaso [1]<detomaso-bounces at server.detomasolist.com> on behalf
of Jerry Knotts [2]<knottsj at galstar.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 18, 2017 7:43 AM
To: DeTomaso list new
Subject: [DeTomaso] Non binding vote
Looking to the collective for some advice.
I have a car that I am getting ready to paint and will be reselling it
after the paint and interior are finished.
I have installed a new motor, clutch -etc. The body has two bad spots
that will be repaired before painting. I has rust in the roof over the
cross member in the engine compartment and a PO installed vents in the
back deck which I will have removed. The affected areas will be
rebuilt
with metal and no fill. It is also getting the hood replaced with a
fiber glass vented version from Bob Byers and a new windshield.
The question is there are vent slats in the front fenders and NACA
ducts
in the lower quarters at the engine compartment. My body man/painter
has offered to also remove these body mods during the repainting
process. Painting, body work and interior fixes will be about 10k.
Also I have a twin turbo set up to go on the car. It currently has a
Demon 750 that runs great. The turbo set up is a Gail Banks 850 blow
through carb with manifold and turbos. I am thinking that it will
require opening up the rear fender wells for the exhaust. Don't know
if it would add 5k value to the car if installed?
The car has about 45K miles and I am looking to maximize the resale
value.
I have attached a photo of the car when I picked it up and it shows
these particular body mods. The question is would it be worth it to
pay
extra to have these mods removed?
Thoughts and opinions are welcome.
Thanks,
jerry knotts
References
1. mailto:detomaso-bounces at server.detomasolist.com
2. mailto:knottsj at galstar.com
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