[DeTomaso] Fw: Tachometer

jderyke at aol.com jderyke at aol.com
Sun Jul 16 17:12:48 EDT 2017


They can be repaired if you (or someone you know) is familiar with electronics. The first problem is getting the bezel off without cracking the chromed brass. The crimped edges will usually bend 2 or 3 times before the next time, they crack. Pro speedo/tach repair shops have parts.

Once  inside, you'll find a ridiculously small, simple printed circuit board, where with a magnifying glass, you may find a cracked component. Mine was a broken glass 1% resistor. A desolder/resolder with a new resistor fixed the problem. At my level of competence, I suggest replacing components with the exact same value, as its basically a counting circuit. No recalibration will be necessary that way.
Good luck- JDeryke


-----Original Message----
From: djenkins <djenkins at vanguardtrailer.com>
To: detomaso <detomaso at server.detomasolist.com>
Sent: Sun, Jul 16, 2017 5:14 am
Subject: [DeTomaso] Fw: Tachometer


Hi,
Can a 73 Tach be repaired and should it be, or is it better to replace?

Thanks,
DJ
Sent from my Verizon LG Smartphone

------ Original message------
From: Jeff Cobb
Date: Sun, Jul 16, 2017 6:33 AM
To: Robert Stroj;Detomaso Email List;
Cc:
Subject:Re: [DeTomaso] Slow cranking when hot
Hello Robert,
Here are my recommendations. Hope they help.
Jeff
On Jul 16, 2017, at 4:49 AM, Robert Stroj wrote:

> Hi,
>
> Thanks for all great suggestions, I will check one by one, starting with batte
ry, grounding......
> What is strange that it had this problem 3 times on first day, but it never ha
ppened again on second and third day of the tripa|.
The common denominator will give you the clue you need.
> car definitely got just as hot on those days!?
Then make it hot again by pulling fan fuses or relay after a hard drive and lett
ing it run with both hatches closed to maybe 240 deg so heat soak will happen.
Then it is test ready.
> It can not be solenoid is it is bypassed since I am using solenoid that is bui
lt into my starter.
It can be the solenoid since it is heat area located.
Always works better is to supply power from a cool placed solenoid.
But then the heated solenoid problem gives click of not proper connection not cr
anking speed.
> Will be hard to trace the problem as is not consistent but, for beginning will
just make sure all the grounds are good/tight.
Use a 200 or larger amp carbon pile load tester to briefly max load your system,
check your alternators real output and smoke out or heat up your ground flaw.
Positive connect of tester to batt + and then move your neg from neg batt post t
o frame then to engine and note changes under load.
Easy to do and a very accurate test. Best to find it now not when you in trouble
.
>
> On another note, we got caught in heavy rain and had water running down on our
legs, glovebox and fuse panel.
> Before the trip I siliconed between windshield and rubber seal, so I really do
ubt that much water could come trough there......there was about 1/2l probably i
n half hour of rain....
> Does anyone have suggestions where else to look for the leak?
> I also checked drain from wiper grills area and this is totally clear...
> I got early 71 car that has lull lever for wanting from the outside but I am n
ot sure where this opening is and if this could be the problem?
>
> Thanks, Robert
>
>> On Jul 15, 2017, at 6:00 PM,[1] detomaso-request at server.detomasolist.com wrot
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>> Today's Topics:
>>
>> 1. Re: Slow cranking when hot (Charles McCall)
>> 2. Slow cranking when hot (Fred Foreman)
>> 3. Re: Pantera Rear Axle (B Hower)
>> 4. Re: Slow cranking when hot - frozen mechanical advance?
>> (Mike & Elizabeth Thomas)
>> 5. Re: Slow cranking when hot (Scott Couchman)
>> 6. ?that's just so lovely (DeTomaso)
>> 7. Re: Slow cranking when hot (Jeff Cobb)
>>
>>
>>
>>
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-------------- next part --------------
   They can be repaired if you (or someone you know) is familiar with
   electronics. The first problem is getting the bezel off without
   cracking the chromed brass. The crimped edges will usually bend 2 or 3
   times before the next time, they crack. Pro speedo/tach repair shops
   have parts.
   Once  inside, you'll find a ridiculously small, simple printed circuit
   board, where with a magnifying glass, you may find a cracked component.
   Mine was a broken glass 1% resistor. A desolder/resolder with a new
   resistor fixed the problem. At my level of competence, I suggest
   replacing components with the exact same value, as its basically a
   counting circuit. No recalibration will be necessary that way.
   Good luck- JDeryke
   -----Original Message----
   From: djenkins <djenkins at vanguardtrailer.com>
   To: detomaso <detomaso at server.detomasolist.com>
   Sent: Sun, Jul 16, 2017 5:14 am
   Subject: [DeTomaso] Fw: Tachometer
   Hi,
   Can a 73 Tach be repaired and should it be, or is it better to replace?
   Thanks,
   DJ
   Sent from my Verizon LG Smartphone
   ------ Original message------
   From: Jeff Cobb
   Date: Sun, Jul 16, 2017 6:33 AM
   To: Robert Stroj;Detomaso Email List;
   Cc:
   Subject:Re: [DeTomaso] Slow cranking when hot
   Hello Robert,
   Here are my recommendations. Hope they help.
   Jeff
   On Jul 16, 2017, at 4:49 AM, Robert Stroj wrote:
   > Hi,
   >
   > Thanks for all great suggestions, I will check one by one, starting
   with batte
   ry, grounding......
   > What is strange that it had this problem 3 times on first day, but it
   never ha
   ppened again on second and third day of the tripa|.
   The common denominator will give you the clue you need.
   > car definitely got just as hot on those days!?
   Then make it hot again by pulling fan fuses or relay after a hard drive
   and lett
   ing it run with both hatches closed to maybe 240 deg so heat soak will
   happen.
   Then it is test ready.
   > It can not be solenoid is it is bypassed since I am using solenoid
   that is bui
   lt into my starter.
   It can be the solenoid since it is heat area located.
   Always works better is to supply power from a cool placed solenoid.
   But then the heated solenoid problem gives click of not proper
   connection not cr
   anking speed.
   > Will be hard to trace the problem as is not consistent but, for
   beginning will
   just make sure all the grounds are good/tight.
   Use a 200 or larger amp carbon pile load tester to briefly max load
   your system,
   check your alternators real output and smoke out or heat up your ground
   flaw.
   Positive connect of tester to batt + and then move your neg from neg
   batt post t
   o frame then to engine and note changes under load.
   Easy to do and a very accurate test. Best to find it now not when you
   in trouble
   .
   >
   > On another note, we got caught in heavy rain and had water running
   down on our
   legs, glovebox and fuse panel.
   > Before the trip I siliconed between windshield and rubber seal, so I
   really do
   ubt that much water could come trough there......there was about 1/2l
   probably i
   n half hour of rain....
   > Does anyone have suggestions where else to look for the leak?
   > I also checked drain from wiper grills area and this is totally
   clear...
   > I got early 71 car that has lull lever for wanting from the outside
   but I am n
   ot sure where this opening is and if this could be the problem?
   >
   > Thanks, Robert
   >
   >> On Jul 15, 2017, at 6:00 PM,[1]
   detomaso-[1]request at server.detomasolist.com wrot
   e:
   >>
   >> Send DeTomaso mailing list submissions to
   >> [2] [2]detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
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   >> [3][3]http://server.detomasolist.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso
   >> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
   >> [4] detomaso-[4]request at server.detomasolist.com
   >>
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   >> [5] detomaso-[5]owner at server.detomasolist.com
   >>
   >> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
   >> than "Re: Contents of DeTomaso digest..."
   >> Daily Detomaso List Digest
   >> Today's Topics:
   >>
   >> 1. Re: Slow cranking when hot (Charles McCall)
   >> 2. Slow cranking when hot (Fred Foreman)
   >> 3. Re: Pantera Rear Axle (B Hower)
   >> 4. Re: Slow cranking when hot - frozen mechanical advance?
   >> (Mike & Elizabeth Thomas)
   >> 5. Re: Slow cranking when hot (Scott Couchman)
   >> 6. ?that's just so lovely (DeTomaso)
   >> 7. Re: Slow cranking when hot (Jeff Cobb)
   >>
   >>
   >>
   >>
   >>
   >>
   >>
   >> _______________________________________________
   >> Posted emails must not exceed 1.5 Megabytes
   >> DeTomaso mailing list
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   e posted here to all past, current, or future members of the list. They
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   nt the list owner permission to maintain an archive or approve the
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   > _______________________________________________
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