[DeTomaso] Fw: Tachometer

Mike Drew MikeLDrew at aol.com
Sun Jul 16 10:59:47 EDT 2017 

Yes tacos can be repaired. Mike Miller in England had his repaired recently using advice from Bill Taylor. 

Having said that, most tach inop stories I have heard have been connection problems, not tach problems. What is your specific issue?

Palo Alto Speedometer is one of the oldest and best-known instrument service companies, highly recommended!

On the other hand, a lot of people have (foolishly in my view) chosen to replace their stock gauges with generic Autometer or similar gauges, leaving their original gauges surplus to the cause. You might be able to find a good deal on a used one?

Mike

Sent from my iPad

> On Jul 16, 2017, at 05:13, "djenkins at vanguardtrailer.com" <djenkins at vanguardtrailer.com> wrote:
> 
>   Hi,
>   Can a 73 Tach be repaired and should it be, or is it better to replace?
> 
>   Thanks,
>   DJ
>   Sent from my Verizon LG Smartphone
> 
>   ------ Original message------
>   From: Jeff Cobb
>   Date: Sun, Jul 16, 2017 6:33 AM
>   To: Robert Stroj;Detomaso Email List;
>   Cc:
>   Subject:Re: [DeTomaso] Slow cranking when hot
> Hello Robert,
> Here are my recommendations. Hope they help.
> Jeff
>> On Jul 16, 2017, at 4:49 AM, Robert Stroj  wrote:
>> 
>> Hi,
>> 
>> Thanks for all great suggestions, I will check one by one, starting with batte
> ry, grounding......
>> What is strange that it had this problem 3 times on first day, but it never ha
> ppened again on second and third day of the tripa|.
> The common denominator will give you the clue you need.
>> car definitely got just as hot on those days!?
> Then make it hot again by pulling fan fuses or relay after a hard drive and lett
> ing it run with both hatches closed to maybe 240 deg so heat soak will happen.
> Then it is test ready.
>> It can not be solenoid is it is bypassed since I am using solenoid that is bui
> lt into my starter.
> It can be the solenoid since it is heat area located.
> Always works better is to supply power from a cool placed solenoid.
> But then the heated solenoid problem gives click of not proper connection not cr
> anking speed.
>> Will be hard to trace the problem as is not consistent but, for beginning will
> just make sure all the grounds are good/tight.
> Use a 200 or larger amp carbon pile load tester to briefly max load your system,
> check your alternators real output and smoke out or heat up your ground flaw.
> Positive connect of tester to batt + and then move your neg from neg batt post t
> o frame then to engine and note changes under load.
> Easy to do and a very accurate test. Best to find it now not when you in trouble
> .
>> 
>> On another note, we got caught in heavy rain and had water running down on our
> legs, glovebox and fuse panel.
>> Before the trip I siliconed between windshield and rubber seal, so I really do
> ubt that much water could come trough there......there was about 1/2l probably i
> n half hour of rain....
>> Does anyone have suggestions where else to look for the leak?
>> I also checked drain from wiper grills area and this is totally clear...
>> I got early 71 car that has lull lever for wanting from the outside but I am n
> ot sure where this opening is and if this could be the problem?
>> 
>> Thanks, Robert
>> 
>>> On Jul 15, 2017, at 6:00 PM,[1] detomaso-request at server.detomasolist.com wrot
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>>> Today's Topics:
>>> 
>>> 1. Re: Slow cranking when hot (Charles McCall)
>>> 2. Slow cranking when hot (Fred Foreman)
>>> 3. Re: Pantera Rear Axle (B Hower)
>>> 4. Re: Slow cranking when hot - frozen mechanical advance?
>>>    (Mike & Elizabeth Thomas)
>>> 5. Re: Slow cranking when hot (Scott Couchman)
>>> 6. ?that's just so lovely (DeTomaso)
>>> 7. Re: Slow cranking when hot (Jeff Cobb)
>>> 
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