[DeTomaso] Stubborn Pilot Bushing

[B. SEIB]

I wish I lived near you Mike. (for a lot of reasons 8>)
It wouldn't take long with a cheap little portable mig welder. I'm not an
expert welder either, but this isn't hard to do. 

Maybe a club member near by could help? 

-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Thomas [mailto:mbefthomas at comcast.net] 
Sent: January-26-17 7:24 PM
To: 'B. SEIB'
Subject: RE: [DeTomaso] Stubborn Pilot Bushing

I don't have a welder or any experience with one.
Thanks

-----Original Message-----
From: B. SEIB [mailto:oldwheel at shaw.ca] 
Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2017 12:51 PM
To: mbefthomas at comcast.net; detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
Subject: [DeTomaso] Stubborn Pilot Bushing

Mike
I assume it is the hardened outer race that is left in the end of the crank.
If that is the case, an old trick for removing blind end bearings like that
is to put a little arc weld on several places around the inside of the race
without welding it to the crank. This is actually easier to do than it
sounds.
The weld expands the race when it heats up and it contracts with the weld so
that it will be quite easy to remove after cooling. I've used this method
for removing steering head bearing races in motorcycles in the past.

PS Make sure you isolate or remove your electronic ignition before you weld.

Good luck!
Barry
____________________________________________________________________________
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Mike Thomas mbefthomas at comcast.net
Wed Jan 25 21:30:09 EST 2017 


 OK, guys, I need some suggestions from the collective.

I'm getting ready to put a new clutch into 6328, and am doing the usual due
diligence by replacing the pilot bushing.  The one trying to remove is a
needle-bearing type.  I had to drive it in bit when I put it in about 6
years ago.  I am now at the point where I've trashed one bearing puller,
completely pulled the guts out of the bearing part of the bushing except for
the race  and the steel surrounding it.  Trying a second puller and it's not
working.  There is only a round edge of the inner lip of the bearing race
left.  When I removed this ones' predecessor, I used the
fill-it-with-grease-and-beat-the-crap-(and grease) out-of-it-with-a-socket
method, and it finally worked.  Made me nervous beating on the end of the
crank that way for 20 minutes.  As it is now, just the race is left of the
bearing in the center, with lips (or what's left of them) fore and aft, so
there is not a clean shaft to put a socket or other in to try the grease
thing again.  I'm beginning to think I need to file the outer lip off of the
remains of the race and tap it for a bolt, then get a slide hammer and start
working on it, or . . .?  I'm likely need to try to remove the inner race to
do the tap as that's likely all I'll pull out by tapping it.

Any and all suggestions are welcome.  Engine is still in the car.  I'm
drizzling penetrating oil on the steel insert part of the bearing twice
daily in hopes I can still get enough pull with puller #2.

Thanks . . .
Mike Thomas
Pres., Panteras Northwest
Yellow '74 #6328