[DeTomaso] Stubborn Pilot Bushing

[cengles at cox.net]

Dear Mike,


             As it happens, I am in the final chapters of my latest 
engine project.  Your comments reminded me of my earlier challenging 
problem removing the same needle bearing pilot bushing.   I had not had 
that problem with the conventional bronze pilot bushings in the past.

             I called Dennis Quella yesterday.  PPC sells the needle 
bearing pilot bushing.  Dennis spoke with me and he was very impressed 
with the benefits of them over the normal bushing.   He said that over 
his years of Pantera/ZF experience, he had seen bad wear patterns on the 
normal bushings (ovoid, wallowed out etc) that then began to translate 
into  problems with the ZF input shaft.   He praised the absence of 
those problems in Panteras that he has serviced for clutch change, etc, 
where he is able to inspect the pilot bushing.  He said that whereas the 
standard practice is to change the inexpensive ( in the past...) pilot 
bushing whenever it was accessible for other service,  he now simply 
inspects the needle bearing pilot bushing and applies a bit of fresh 
grease and does *not* change them out.

            Now, after the conversation, I realize, too late, that I 
didn't ask about *how* to remove the stubborn things.

            If Dennis is right, and I expect that he is, then the 
frustrating exercise that I endured and you are suffering may not be 
necessary.

            I decided that I will use the PPC needle bearing pilot 
bushing on the new engine and expect that it will last a good long time.

            FWIW.


                             Warmest regards,  Chuck Engles





On Thu, Jan 26, 2017 at 10:29 PM, B. SEIB wrote:

> I wish I lived near you Mike. (for a lot of reasons 8>)
> It wouldn't take long with a cheap little portable mig welder. I'm not 
> an
> expert welder either, but this isn't hard to do.
> Maybe a club member near by could help?
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mike Thomas [mailto:mbefthomas at comcast.net] Sent: January-26-17 
> 7:24 PM
> To: 'B. SEIB'
> Subject: RE: [DeTomaso] Stubborn Pilot Bushing
>
> I don't have a welder or any experience with one.
> Thanks
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: B. SEIB [mailto:oldwheel at shaw.ca] Sent: Thursday, January 26, 
> 2017 12:51 PM
> To: mbefthomas at comcast.net; detomaso at server.detomasolist.com
> Subject: [DeTomaso] Stubborn Pilot Bushing
>
> Mike
> I assume it is the hardened outer race that is left in the end of the 
> crank.
> If that is the case, an old trick for removing blind end bearings like 
> that
> is to put a little arc weld on several places around the inside of the 
> race
> without welding it to the crank. This is actually easier to do than it
> sounds.
> The weld expands the race when it heats up and it contracts with the 
> weld so
> that it will be quite easy to remove after cooling. I've used this 
> method
> for removing steering head bearing races in motorcycles in the past.
>
> PS Make sure you isolate or remove your electronic ignition before you 
> weld.
>
> Good luck!
> Barry
> 
> ____________________________________________________________________________
> __
> Mike Thomas mbefthomas at comcast.net
> Wed Jan 25 21:30:09 EST 2017
>
>  OK, guys, I need some suggestions from the collective.
>
> I'm getting ready to put a new clutch into 6328, and am doing the 
> usual due
> diligence by replacing the pilot bushing.  The one trying to remove is 
> a
> needle-bearing type.  I had to drive it in bit when I put it in about 
> 6
> years ago.  I am now at the point where I've trashed one bearing 
> puller,
> completely pulled the guts out of the bearing part of the bushing 
> except for
> the race  and the steel surrounding it.  Trying a second puller and 
> it's not
> working.  There is only a round edge of the inner lip of the bearing 
> race
> left.  When I removed this ones' predecessor, I used the
> fill-it-with-grease-and-beat-the-crap-(and grease) 
> out-of-it-with-a-socket
> method, and it finally worked.  Made me nervous beating on the end of 
> the
> crank that way for 20 minutes.  As it is now, just the race is left of 
> the
> bearing in the center, with lips (or what's left of them) fore and 
> aft, so
> there is not a clean shaft to put a socket or other in to try the 
> grease
> thing again.  I'm beginning to think I need to file the outer lip off 
> of the
> remains of the race and tap it for a bolt, then get a slide hammer and 
> start
> working on it, or . . .?  I'm likely need to try to remove the inner 
> race to
> do the tap as that's likely all I'll pull out by tapping it.
>
> Any and all suggestions are welcome.  Engine is still in the car.  I'm
> drizzling penetrating oil on the steel insert part of the bearing 
> twice
> daily in hopes I can still get enough pull with puller #2.
>
> Thanks . . .
> Mike Thomas
> Pres., Panteras Northwest
> Yellow '74 #6328
>
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