[DeTomaso] Dash warning lights on single pod L models

[Garth Rodericks]

Hey Dennis,
Change out those stock brake pads for a set of Porterfield 4RS pads!  It's a huge brake upgrade that will greatly improve your car's braking performance.  Do it now before you have an accident!  Those original pads are crappy and will wear out your rotors before they wear out themselves.  I pulled mine off at 90,000 miles and they still looked like brand new pads, but the Porterfields gave me substantially better brake performance!
Cheers!Garth


--- Original Message ---So here is my problem.  I changed out my 42 year old rubber brake hoses to the calipers with some flexible stainless from Sac Restorations.  Bleed the system with new fluid and everything works great except the pad sensor light now stays on.  I was expecting the shuttle valve light might come on from the bleeding process but that did not happen.

I did nothing to the calipers and I know the pads (stock) are nearly new from looking at them last year.  The sensor wires were zip tied to the old brake lines and I zip tied them to the new lines.  I'm wondering if moving them around caused a short or perhaps some how they are shorting on to the new metallic brake lines.

I think I'll separate them and look for fraying, move them around a bit and see if the light goes off.  Any other Ideas?
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   Hey Dennis,
   Change out those stock brake pads for a set of Porterfield 4RS pads!
   It's a huge brake upgrade that will greatly improve your car's braking
   performance.  Do it now before you have an accident!  Those original
   pads are crappy and will wear out your rotors before they wear out
   themselves.  I pulled mine off at 90,000 miles and they still looked
   like brand new pads, but the Porterfields gave me substantially better
   brake performance!
   Cheers!
   Garth
   --- Original Message ---
So here is my problem.  I changed out my 42 year old rubber brake hoses to the c
alipers with some flexible stainless from Sac Restorations.  Bleed the system wi
th new fluid and everything works great except the pad sensor light now stays on
.  I was expecting the shuttle valve light might come on from the bleeding proce
ss but that did not happen.

I did nothing to the calipers and I know the pads (stock) are nearly new from lo
oking at them last year.  The sensor wires were zip tied to the old brake lines
and I zip tied them to the new lines.  I'm wondering if moving them around cause
d a short or perhaps some how they are shorting on to the new metallic brake lin
es.

I think I'll separate them and look for fraying, move them around a bit and see
if the light goes off.  Any other Ideas?