[DeTomaso] Dash warning lights on single pod L models

MikeLDrew at aol.com MikeLDrew at aol.com
Tue Jun 28 23:00:11 EDT 2016


In a message dated 6/28/16 7:49:15 PM, sjcarguy60 at yahoo.com writes:


> So here is my problem.  I changed out my 42 year old rubber brake hoses 
> to the calipers with some flexible stainless from Sac Restorations.  
> 
>>>Good!

> >Bleed the system with new fluid and everything works great except the 
> pad sensor light now stays on.  I was expecting the shuttle valve light might 
> come on from the bleeding process but that did not happen.
> 
>>>Be grateful for that at least!
> 
> >I did nothing to the calipers and I know the pads (stock) are nearly new 
> from looking at them last year. 
> 
>>>Stock pads suck.   While you were in there it would have been very 
beneficial to replace them with Porterfield pads.


>  >The sensor wires were zip tied to the old brake lines
> 
>>>Most people just tuck them out of the way and tie them to the other 
harness wires...


> > and I zip tied them to the new lines.  I'm wondering if moving them 
> around caused a short or perhaps some how they are shorting on to the new 
> metallic brake lines.
> 
>>>It only takes one.   There are two white/black wires which come from the 
warning light and go to the sensors on the pads.   If the pad wears enough 
for the sensor to contact the surface of the disc, it completes the ground 
and illuminates the light.   Sounds like perhaps one of your wires is now in 
close proximity to a metal (as opposed to the old rubber) hose and that is 
making the electrical connection.   I would suggest removing the wires from 
the flex hoses, taping the ends with electrical tape, and then tucking them 
away and securing them to some other wires.

(Alternately, if you really have stock pads that still have the tabs, you 
could always just plug the wires back into the pads!)
> 
> >I think I'll separate them and look for fraying, move them around a bit 
> and see if the light goes off.  Any other Ideas?
> 
>>>Just isolate them better and you should be fine.....

Cheers!

Mike

P.S.   Do you have Bill Taylor's fantastic electrical diagrams?   They are 
available for download from www.panteraplace.com.   I will send you the 
relevant diagram separately....
-------------- next part --------------
   In a message dated 6/28/16 7:49:15 PM, sjcarguy60 at yahoo.com writes:

     So here is my problem.  I changed out my 42 year old rubber brake
     hoses to the calipers with some flexible stainless from Sac
     Restorations.

   >>>Good!

     >Bleed the system with new fluid and everything works great except
     the pad sensor light now stays on.  I was expecting the shuttle
     valve light might come on from the bleeding process but that did not
     happen.

   >>>Be grateful for that at least!

     >I did nothing to the calipers and I know the pads (stock) are
     nearly new from looking at them last year.

   >>>Stock pads suck.  While you were in there it would have been very
   beneficial to replace them with Porterfield pads.

     >The sensor wires were zip tied to the old brake lines

   >>>Most people just tuck them out of the way and tie them to the other
   harness wires...

     > and I zip tied them to the new lines.  I'm wondering if moving
     them around caused a short or perhaps some how they are shorting on
     to the new metallic brake lines.

   >>>It only takes one.  There are two white/black wires which come from
   the warning light and go to the sensors on the pads.  If the pad wears
   enough for the sensor to contact the surface of the disc, it completes
   the ground and illuminates the light.  Sounds like perhaps one of your
   wires is now in close proximity to a metal (as opposed to the old
   rubber) hose and that is making the electrical connection.  I would
   suggest removing the wires from the flex hoses, taping the ends with
   electrical tape, and then tucking them away and securing them to some
   other wires.
   (Alternately, if you really have stock pads that still have the tabs,
   you could always just plug the wires back into the pads!)

     >I think I'll separate them and look for fraying, move them around a
     bit and see if the light goes off.  Any other Ideas?

   >>>Just isolate them better and you should be fine.....
   Cheers!
   Mike
   P.S.  Do you have Bill Taylor's fantastic electrical diagrams?  They
   are available for download from www.panteraplace.com.  I will send you
   the relevant diagram separately....


More information about the DeTomaso mailing list