[DeTomaso] Dash warning lights on single pod L models
MikeLDrew at aol.com
MikeLDrew at aol.com
Tue Jun 28 23:00:11 EDT 2016
In a message dated 6/28/16 7:49:15 PM, sjcarguy60 at yahoo.com writes:
> So here is my problem. I changed out my 42 year old rubber brake hoses
> to the calipers with some flexible stainless from Sac Restorations.
>
>>>Good!
> >Bleed the system with new fluid and everything works great except the
> pad sensor light now stays on. I was expecting the shuttle valve light might
> come on from the bleeding process but that did not happen.
>
>>>Be grateful for that at least!
>
> >I did nothing to the calipers and I know the pads (stock) are nearly new
> from looking at them last year.
>
>>>Stock pads suck. While you were in there it would have been very
beneficial to replace them with Porterfield pads.
> >The sensor wires were zip tied to the old brake lines
>
>>>Most people just tuck them out of the way and tie them to the other
harness wires...
> > and I zip tied them to the new lines. I'm wondering if moving them
> around caused a short or perhaps some how they are shorting on to the new
> metallic brake lines.
>
>>>It only takes one. There are two white/black wires which come from the
warning light and go to the sensors on the pads. If the pad wears enough
for the sensor to contact the surface of the disc, it completes the ground
and illuminates the light. Sounds like perhaps one of your wires is now in
close proximity to a metal (as opposed to the old rubber) hose and that is
making the electrical connection. I would suggest removing the wires from
the flex hoses, taping the ends with electrical tape, and then tucking them
away and securing them to some other wires.
(Alternately, if you really have stock pads that still have the tabs, you
could always just plug the wires back into the pads!)
>
> >I think I'll separate them and look for fraying, move them around a bit
> and see if the light goes off. Any other Ideas?
>
>>>Just isolate them better and you should be fine.....
Cheers!
Mike
P.S. Do you have Bill Taylor's fantastic electrical diagrams? They are
available for download from www.panteraplace.com. I will send you the
relevant diagram separately....
-------------- next part --------------
In a message dated 6/28/16 7:49:15 PM, sjcarguy60 at yahoo.com writes:
So here is my problem. I changed out my 42 year old rubber brake
hoses to the calipers with some flexible stainless from Sac
Restorations.
>>>Good!
>Bleed the system with new fluid and everything works great except
the pad sensor light now stays on. I was expecting the shuttle
valve light might come on from the bleeding process but that did not
happen.
>>>Be grateful for that at least!
>I did nothing to the calipers and I know the pads (stock) are
nearly new from looking at them last year.
>>>Stock pads suck. While you were in there it would have been very
beneficial to replace them with Porterfield pads.
>The sensor wires were zip tied to the old brake lines
>>>Most people just tuck them out of the way and tie them to the other
harness wires...
> and I zip tied them to the new lines. I'm wondering if moving
them around caused a short or perhaps some how they are shorting on
to the new metallic brake lines.
>>>It only takes one. There are two white/black wires which come from
the warning light and go to the sensors on the pads. If the pad wears
enough for the sensor to contact the surface of the disc, it completes
the ground and illuminates the light. Sounds like perhaps one of your
wires is now in close proximity to a metal (as opposed to the old
rubber) hose and that is making the electrical connection. I would
suggest removing the wires from the flex hoses, taping the ends with
electrical tape, and then tucking them away and securing them to some
other wires.
(Alternately, if you really have stock pads that still have the tabs,
you could always just plug the wires back into the pads!)
>I think I'll separate them and look for fraying, move them around a
bit and see if the light goes off. Any other Ideas?
>>>Just isolate them better and you should be fine.....
Cheers!
Mike
P.S. Do you have Bill Taylor's fantastic electrical diagrams? They
are available for download from www.panteraplace.com. I will send you
the relevant diagram separately....
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