[DeTomaso] Motor Mount Insulator

[jderyke at aol.com]

Reasonably hard street driving will MELT polyurethane motormount insulators. The poly liquifies from exhaust heat and runs like pudding all over everything. On the left side which needs to be separated into two pieces to remove the assembly from around the shift-shaft, you are faced with cutting away enough of the now-solidified poly so as to remove the metal mounts, then cleaning up the mess that generates. Trying to limp the car home on the street, melted insulators will allow the engine to sag at least an inch and move around under power, possibly causing problems with the alt belt, alt fan and distributor cap against the steel firewall. 

 Stock rubber insulators will work well for decades and all the vendors sell them. If its a case of economics, in some cases an OEM rubber insulator can be sawed in two. The top part (above the upper aluminum half of the motor mount) is only needed if you regularly hit really big bumps. Almost all the load of driving and all the powertrain weight is taken by the lower part between the two aluminum sections. See POCA Newletter Sept '09 for an in-depth look at Pantera motor mounts.

 

 

 

-----Original Message-----
From: J B Reardon via DeTomaso <detomaso at poca.com>
To: detomaso <detomaso at poca.com>
Sent: Fri, Jul 25, 2014 7:29 am
Subject: [DeTomaso] Motor Mount Insulator


   I have a set of polyurethane  motor mount insulators that I was
   planning on using. After some discussion I was told
   they were not good in the heated environment of the engine bay.  Should
   I get rubber ones?
   If so what dealers have them in stock?
   Jim Reardon

 
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-------------- next part --------------
   Reasonably hard street driving will MELT polyurethane motormount
   insulators. The poly liquifies from exhaust heat and runs like pudding
   all over everything. On the left side which needs to be separated into
   two pieces to remove the assembly from around the shift-shaft, you are
   faced with cutting away enough of the now-solidified poly so as to
   remove the metal mounts, then cleaning up the mess that generates.
   Trying to limp the car home on the street, melted insulators will allow
   the engine to sag at least an inch and move around under power,
   possibly causing problems with the alt belt, alt fan and distributor
   cap against the steel firewall.
    Stock rubber insulators will work well for decades and all the vendors
   sell them. If its a case of economics, in some cases an OEM rubber
   insulator can be sawed in two. The top part (above the upper aluminum
   half of the motor mount) is only needed if you regularly hit really big
   bumps. Almost all the load of driving and all the powertrain weight is
   taken by the lower part between the two aluminum sections. See POCA
   Newletter Sept '09 for an in-depth look at Pantera motor mounts.

   -----Original Message-----
   From: J B Reardon via DeTomaso <detomaso at poca.com>
   To: detomaso <detomaso at poca.com>
   Sent: Fri, Jul 25, 2014 7:29 am
   Subject: [DeTomaso] Motor Mount Insulator
   I have a set of polyurethane  motor mount insulators that I was
   planning on using. After some discussion I was told
   they were not good in the heated environment of the engine bay.  Should
   I get rubber ones?
   If so what dealers have them in stock?
   Jim Reardon

_______________________________________________

Detomaso Forum Managed by POCA

DeTomaso mailing list
[1]DeTomaso at poca.com
[2]http://poca.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso_poca.com

References

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