[DeTomaso] Strange electrical issue - is it time for a new starter?
michael at michaelshortt.com
michael at michaelshortt.com
Tue Feb 18 18:39:56 EST 2014
If you are not using a Battery Tender brand, I would keep on doing what
you're doing.
The BT have a way of sensing the amount of charge needed ( or not ) and
keeps the battery at
it best performance level.
You can find the Battery tender Jr online for under $50,.00, considering
the cost of a $200 battery, it's a good investment.
Optimas ( and I had owned many and still do ) don't like regular chargers
or being boosted.
As far as what runs them down, in my car, it's probably the clock and door
lights,
I have done the most stupid thing at least twice and left the manual fans
on after parking it, not fun the next time out.
Michael'
On Tue, Feb 18, 2014 at 6:32 PM, Peter Cajthaml <pcajthaml at gmail.com> wrote:
> Michael:
> good question. I only put the battery tender on if the car sits for
> more than a week, and even then, I don't usually put it on until maybe
> 24 hours before I intend to drive it. I am told that this type of
> battery holds its charge for a very long time. I always disconnect the
> battery, so where is it going to drain? Also, the garage never gets
> below 50F. I am more concerned with overcharging the battery, as I
> have a fairly simple (inexpensive) trickle charger and don't fully
> trust it! :)
> Peter
>
> On Tue, Feb 18, 2014 at 1:07 PM, [1]michael at michaelshortt.com
> <[2]michael at michaelshortt.com> wrote:
>
> Are you keeping a Battery Tender on the car between drives?
> Best way to preserve the life of an Optima.
> Michael Shortt
>
> On Tue, Feb 18, 2014 at 1:10 PM, Peter Cajthaml
> <[3]pcajthaml at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Jim,
> I have a brand new Sears Die Hard Platinum (Odyssey) - less than 6
> months old. I like using the cutoff switch when I am not driving
> the
> car to minimize the leakage current from draining the battery, but I
> will remove the switch to see if it solves this issue. I may
> replace
> it with the more robust one Mike described above. I typically only
> drive the car on the weekend, and if I am away, the car may sit for
> 2
> or 3 weeks w/o being driven.
> As always thanks for the advice,
> Peter
> #2761
>
> On Mon, Feb 17, 2014 at 7:13 PM, Pantdino <[1][4]pantdino at aol.com>
> wrote:
> How old is your battery?
> If the disconnect switch is OK and the problem persists, replace
> your
> battery. Or if you have the green knob kind Mike describes replace
> it
> too.
> I spent hours evaluating things last time I had this "no start"
> situation and replacing the battery made it all go away.
> Jim Oddie
> -----Original Message-----
>
> From: MikeLDrew <[2][5]MikeLDrew at aol.com>
> To: pcajthaml <[3][6]pcajthaml at gmail.com>; detomaso
> <[4][7]detomaso at poca.com>
> Sent: Mon, Feb 17, 2014 1:15 pm
> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Strange electrical issue - is it time for a
> new
> starter?
>
> In a message dated 2/17/14 12 08 33, [5][8]pcajthaml at gmail.com
> writes:
> So far, after turning off the battery disconnect switch and then
> back on, the starter kicks over as when new. Should I replace the
> starter before I get stuck somewhere?
> >>>No. Your starter is working fine. The most obvious suggestion
> is
> to check all your connections--at the battery, starter solenoid, and
> the starter itself.
> Assuming they are all good, the problem is almost assuredly within
> your
> disconnect switch. You don't mention which kind you have? Broadly,
> there are two types. One has a post that the battery cable clamps
> to,
> a clamp to attach it to the battery, and a knob (usually green) that
> you unscrew to electrically separate the two halves. These things
> are
> pretty effective, but also extremely cheap. I would imagine (guess)
> that overtightening can break things.
> The other kind is a proper switch, with two posts (one for the cable
> in, another for a cable out) and a keyed switch in between. These
> seem
> to be more robust.
> As an experiment, remove the switch from your system and evaluate
> performance. It's likely that things will function just perfectly.
> At
> that point you get to decide whether you want to service the switch
> (could there be a buildup of corrosion), replace it, or just do away
> with it entirely.
> FWIW I have key-type switches on two cars, and a knob-type switch on
> a
> third one--all of them have worked great for years, although the
> knob-style switch is rarely disconnected so it hasn't had a chance
> to
> wear out yet.
> Let us know what you find out!
> Mike
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> References
> 1. mailto:[11]pantdino at aol.com
> 2. mailto:[12]MikeLDrew at aol.com
> 3. mailto:[13]pcajthaml at gmail.com
> 4. mailto:[14]detomaso at poca.com
> 5. mailto:[15]pcajthaml at gmail.com
> 6. mailto:[16]DeTomaso at poca.com
> 7. [17]http://poca.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso_poca.com
>
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> --
> Michael L. Shortt
> Savannah, Georgia
> [20]www.michaelshortt.com
> [21]michael at michaelshortt.com
> [22]912-232-9390
>
> This email is protected by the Electronic Communications Privacy
> Act, 18 U.S.C. Sec. 2510-2521, is confidential and may be legally
> privileged. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby
> notified
> that any retention, dissemination, distribution or copying of this
> communication is strictly prohibited. Please reply to the sender that
> you
> have received this message in error, then delete it. Thank you
>
> References
>
> 1. mailto:michael at michaelshortt.com
> 2. mailto:michael at michaelshortt.com
> 3. mailto:pcajthaml at gmail.com
> 4. mailto:pantdino at aol.com
> 5. mailto:MikeLDrew at aol.com
> 6. mailto:pcajthaml at gmail.com
> 7. mailto:detomaso at poca.com
> 8. mailto:pcajthaml at gmail.com
> 9. mailto:DeTomaso at poca.com
> 10. http://poca.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso_poca.com
> 11. mailto:pantdino at aol.com
> 12. mailto:MikeLDrew at aol.com
> 13. mailto:pcajthaml at gmail.com
> 14. mailto:detomaso at poca.com
> 15. mailto:pcajthaml at gmail.com
> 16. mailto:DeTomaso at poca.com
> 17. http://poca.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso_poca.com
> 18. mailto:DeTomaso at poca.com
> 19. http://poca.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso_poca.com
> 20. http://www.michaelshortt.com/
> 21. mailto:michael at michaelshortt.com
> 22. tel:912-232-9390
>
> _______________________________________________
>
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--
Michael L. Shortt
Savannah, Georgia
www.michaelshortt.com
michael at michaelshortt.com
912-232-9390
This email is protected by the Electronic Communications Privacy
Act, 18 U.S.C. Sec. 2510-2521, is confidential and may be legally
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have received this message in error, then delete it. Thank you
-------------- next part --------------
If you are not using a Battery Tender brand, I would keep on doing what
you're doing.
The BT have a way of sensing the amount of charge needed ( or not ) and
keeps the battery at
it best performance level.
You can find the Battery tender Jr online for under $50,.00,
considering the cost of a $200 battery, it's a good investment.
Optimas ( and I had owned many and still do ) don't like regular
chargers or being boosted.
As far as what runs them down, in my car, it's probably the clock and
door lights,
I have done the most stupid thing at least twice and left the manual
fans on after parking it, not fun the next time out.
Michael'
On Tue, Feb 18, 2014 at 6:32 PM, Peter Cajthaml
<[1]pcajthaml at gmail.com> wrote:
Michael:
good question. I only put the battery tender on if the car sits
for
more than a week, and even then, I don't usually put it on until
maybe
24 hours before I intend to drive it. I am told that this type
of
battery holds its charge for a very long time. I always
disconnect the
battery, so where is it going to drain? Also, the garage never
gets
below 50F. I am more concerned with overcharging the battery, as
I
have a fairly simple (inexpensive) trickle charger and don't
fully
trust it! :)
Peter
On Tue, Feb 18, 2014 at 1:07 PM, [1][2]michael at michaelshortt.com
<[2][3]michael at michaelshortt.com> wrote:
Are you keeping a Battery Tender on the car between drives?
Best way to preserve the life of an Optima.
Michael Shortt
On Tue, Feb 18, 2014 at 1:10 PM, Peter Cajthaml
<[3][4]pcajthaml at gmail.com> wrote:
Jim,
I have a brand new Sears Die Hard Platinum (Odyssey) - less than
6
months old. I like using the cutoff switch when I am not driving
the
car to minimize the leakage current from draining the battery,
but I
will remove the switch to see if it solves this issue. I may
replace
it with the more robust one Mike described above. I typically
only
drive the car on the weekend, and if I am away, the car may sit
for
2
or 3 weeks w/o being driven.
As always thanks for the advice,
Peter
#2761
On Mon, Feb 17, 2014 at 7:13 PM, Pantdino
<[1][4][5]pantdino at aol.com>
wrote:
How old is your battery?
If the disconnect switch is OK and the problem persists, replace
your
battery. Or if you have the green knob kind Mike describes
replace
it
too.
I spent hours evaluating things last time I had this "no start"
situation and replacing the battery made it all go away.
Jim Oddie
-----Original Message-----
From: MikeLDrew <[2][5][6]MikeLDrew at aol.com>
To: pcajthaml <[3][6][7]pcajthaml at gmail.com>; detomaso
<[4][7][8]detomaso at poca.com>
Sent: Mon, Feb 17, 2014 1:15 pm
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Strange electrical issue - is it time for
a
new
starter?
In a message dated 2/17/14 12 08 33,
[5][8][9]pcajthaml at gmail.com
writes:
So far, after turning off the battery disconnect switch and
then
back on, the starter kicks over as when new. Should I replace
the
starter before I get stuck somewhere?
>>>No. Your starter is working fine. The most obvious
suggestion
is
to check all your connections--at the battery, starter solenoid,
and
the starter itself.
Assuming they are all good, the problem is almost assuredly
within
your
disconnect switch. You don't mention which kind you have?
Broadly,
there are two types. One has a post that the battery cable
clamps
to,
a clamp to attach it to the battery, and a knob (usually green)
that
you unscrew to electrically separate the two halves. These
things
are
pretty effective, but also extremely cheap. I would imagine
(guess)
that overtightening can break things.
The other kind is a proper switch, with two posts (one for the
cable
in, another for a cable out) and a keyed switch in between.
These
seem
to be more robust.
As an experiment, remove the switch from your system and evaluate
performance. It's likely that things will function just
perfectly.
At
that point you get to decide whether you want to service the
switch
(could there be a buildup of corrosion), replace it, or just do
away
with it entirely.
FWIW I have key-type switches on two cars, and a knob-type switch
on
a
third one--all of them have worked great for years, although the
knob-style switch is rarely disconnected so it hasn't had a
chance
to
wear out yet.
Let us know what you find out!
Mike
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--
Michael L. Shortt
Savannah, Georgia
[20][21]www.michaelshortt.com
[21][22]michael at michaelshortt.com
[22]912-232-9390
This email is protected by the Electronic Communications Privacy
Act, 18 U.S.C. Sec. 2510-2521, is confidential and may be legally
privileged. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby
notified
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communication is strictly prohibited. Please reply to the sender
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you
have received this message in error, then delete it. Thank you
References
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4. mailto:[26]pantdino at aol.com
5. mailto:[27]MikeLDrew at aol.com
6. mailto:[28]pcajthaml at gmail.com
7. mailto:[29]detomaso at poca.com
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9. mailto:[31]DeTomaso at poca.com
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14. mailto:[36]detomaso at poca.com
15. mailto:[37]pcajthaml at gmail.com
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[47]www.michaelshortt.com
[48]michael at michaelshortt.com
912-232-9390
This email is protected by the Electronic Communications Privacy
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privileged. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby
notified
that any retention, dissemination, distribution or copying of this
communication is strictly prohibited. Please reply to the sender that
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have received this message in error, then delete it. Thank you
References
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2. mailto:michael at michaelshortt.com
3. mailto:michael at michaelshortt.com
4. mailto:pcajthaml at gmail.com
5. mailto:pantdino at aol.com
6. mailto:MikeLDrew at aol.com
7. mailto:pcajthaml at gmail.com
8. mailto:detomaso at poca.com
9. mailto:pcajthaml at gmail.com
10. mailto:DeTomaso at poca.com
11. http://poca.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso_poca.com
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