[DeTomaso] Engine stall under hard braking
Will Kooiman
will.kooiman at gmail.com
Wed May 22 23:49:38 EDT 2013
The ultimate is probably to tig weld an aluminum spacer, and then mill it
to the height you want.
Mine worked perfectly with the cut plastic spacer. Then I switched to an
A331 intake that was already level, so I didn't need the spacer. Then I
switched to Webers.
--
Will
On 5/22/13 4:15 PM, "Mikael" <mikael_hass at mail.tele.dk> wrote:
>Will, just what I was about to write, agree 100%. It's the boosters, not
>vent tubes, and it's because our engines tilt forward. And I couldn't
>eliminate it by setting float without getting the float level way too low
>compared to the window. And btw, if going backwards real fast (dangerous,
>need plenty of space around you) and slamming the brakes, there's no
>stalling, only when going forward.
>
>My plan, didn't get around to it because of paint work this winter is to
>shave the intake manifold to remove 5mm at the rear. Janne, you probably
>can't shave the carb, I looked at mine, any you get into/thinning areas
>around throttle axles.
>
>Mikael
>-----Oprindelig meddelelse-----
>Fra: Will Kooiman [mailto:will.kooiman at gmail.com]
>Sendt: 22. maj 2013 14:09
>Til: eb0711 at kolumbus.fi; Don Thomas
>Cc: detomaso at poca.com
>Emne: Re: [DeTomaso] Engine stall under hard braking
>
>I had the same thing years ago.
>
>I tested on an empty road. I removed the air filter and hit the brakes.
>Fuel comes out of the REAR BOOSTERS. NOT the vents. Vent whistles won't
>fix that, nor will a tube connecting the vent pipes.
>
>I tried everything on your list, but it did nothing.
>
>I finally leveled the carburetor, and then reset the float levels. After
>that, I could stand on the brakes without killing the engine.
>
>The intake is made for a front engine car, which tilts the engine down in
>the back to make it easier for the transmission to fit under the car. The
>carburetor is tilted in the front to level the carburetor.
>
>The Pantera mounts the engine level, but the carburetor is still tilted
>down
>in the front.
>
>I leveled my carburetor by modifying a plastic carburetor spacer. You can
>probably buy a tilted carburetor spacer, so you don't have to modify your
>own.
>
>You do not need to bend the carburetor studs. The studs are smaller than
>the holes in the carburetor.
>
>My advice is to first level the carburetor, and then set the float levels.
> And then, you need to readjust the idle screws, the timing and the jets.
>
>And just to keep me honest, try hitting the brakes with the air filter
>removed. Just make sure you are safe - empty road, no traffic, etc.
>
>--
>Will
>
>
>
>
>
>On 5/22/13 1:14 AM, "eb0711 at kolumbus.fi" <eb0711 at kolumbus.fi> wrote:
>
>>Thanks to all for inputs. Sounds like the plan goes like this:
>>
>>Check float levels
>>test
>>Add whistle to the rear bowl, if there's not one there test Connect the
>>vent pipes test
>>
>>-Janne
>>
>>5/22/2013 6:37 AM, Don Thomas kirjoitti:
>>> If you are braking hard you should have a fuel baffle / whistle.
>>> See: http://holley.com/26-89.aspv
>>>
>>>
>>> On Tue, May 21, 2013 at 11:46 AM, eb0711 at kolumbus.fi
>>> <mailto:eb0711 at kolumbus.fi> <eb0711 at kolumbus.fi
>>> <mailto:eb0711 at kolumbus.fi>> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> I have a practically stock engine, but with holley vacuum secondary
>>> carb. I've been doing couple of hard brakings now that I have
>>>rebuilt
>>> the brakes, and love the brake performance. However I've
>>>succeeded to
>>> stall the engine a few times under braking.
>>>
>>> Thinking it could be carb and fuel slosh related, but where to
>>>begin?
>>>
>>> Cheers,
>>> Janne
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