[DeTomaso] Engine stall under hard braking

Mikael mikael_hass at mail.tele.dk
Wed May 22 16:15:42 EDT 2013


Will, just what I was about to write, agree 100%. It's the boosters, not
vent tubes, and it's because our engines tilt forward. And I couldn't
eliminate it by setting float without getting the float level way too low
compared to the window. And btw, if going backwards real fast (dangerous,
need plenty of space around you) and slamming the brakes, there's no
stalling, only when going forward.

My plan, didn't get around to it because of paint work this winter is to
shave the intake manifold to remove 5mm at the rear. Janne, you probably
can't shave the carb, I looked at mine, any you get into/thinning areas
around throttle axles.

Mikael
-----Oprindelig meddelelse-----
Fra: Will Kooiman [mailto:will.kooiman at gmail.com] 
Sendt: 22. maj 2013 14:09
Til: eb0711 at kolumbus.fi; Don Thomas
Cc: detomaso at poca.com
Emne: Re: [DeTomaso] Engine stall under hard braking

I had the same thing years ago.

I tested on an empty road.  I removed the air filter and hit the brakes.
Fuel comes out of the REAR BOOSTERS.  NOT the vents.  Vent whistles won't
fix that, nor will a tube connecting the vent pipes.

I tried everything on your list, but it did nothing.

I finally leveled the carburetor, and then reset the float levels.  After
that, I could stand on the brakes without killing the engine.

The intake is made for a front engine car, which tilts the engine down in
the back to make it easier for the transmission to fit under the car.  The
carburetor is tilted in the front to level the carburetor.

The Pantera mounts the engine level, but the carburetor is still tilted down
in the front.

I leveled my carburetor by modifying a plastic carburetor spacer.  You can
probably buy a tilted carburetor spacer, so you don't have to modify your
own.

You do not need to bend the carburetor studs.  The studs are smaller than
the holes in the carburetor.

My advice is to first level the carburetor, and then set the float levels.
 And then, you need to readjust the idle screws, the timing and the jets.

And just to keep me honest, try hitting the brakes with the air filter
removed.  Just make sure you are safe - empty road, no traffic, etc.

--
Will





On 5/22/13 1:14 AM, "eb0711 at kolumbus.fi" <eb0711 at kolumbus.fi> wrote:

>Thanks to all for inputs. Sounds like the plan goes like this:
>
>Check float levels
>test
>Add whistle to the rear bowl, if there's not one there test Connect the 
>vent pipes test
>
>-Janne
>
>5/22/2013 6:37 AM, Don Thomas kirjoitti:
>> If you are braking hard you should have a fuel baffle / whistle.
>> See: http://holley.com/26-89.aspv
>>
>>
>> On Tue, May 21, 2013 at 11:46 AM, eb0711 at kolumbus.fi 
>> <mailto:eb0711 at kolumbus.fi> <eb0711 at kolumbus.fi 
>> <mailto:eb0711 at kolumbus.fi>> wrote:
>>
>>
>>     I have a practically stock engine, but with holley vacuum secondary
>>     carb. I've been doing couple of hard brakings now that I have 
>>rebuilt
>>     the brakes, and love the brake performance. However I've 
>>succeeded to
>>     stall the engine a few times under braking.
>>
>>     Thinking it could be carb and fuel slosh related, but where to 
>>begin?
>>
>>     Cheers,
>>     Janne
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