[DeTomaso] Dynamat Xtreme results

Mike Thomas mbefthomas at comcast.net
Sun Jul 21 20:29:52 EDT 2013


Any thoughts to Dynamat in the ceiling?  I know, that would have involved
removing the headliner, but I wonder how much noise and/or heat (sun)
reduction there would be.  Your info is timely as I will be doing the same
thing as part of my interior redux this year.  Thanks Larry.

Mike Thomas
VP, POCA
VP, Panteras Northwest
Yellow '74 #6328



-----Original Message-----
From: detomaso-bounces at poca.com [mailto:detomaso-bounces at poca.com] On Behalf
Of Larry Finch
Sent: Sunday, July 21, 2013 2:52 PM
To: detomaso at poca.com
Subject: [DeTomaso] Dynamat Xtreme results

All,

As you may recall I learned a hard lesson as to what happens when you fail
to fully tighten a heater hose connection after doing an evaporator upgrade.

I have just finished the installation of Dynamat on 2511. Curious as to just
how much it would require to cover the interior and what the added weight
would be, I made detailed before and after records of the weight of the
Dynamat I used.

I used Dynamat Xtreme in the bulk packs of 9 sheets, each 18" x 32". Each
sheet is four square feet, and the pack of nine sheets is about $150 a box
on eBay. I bought two boxes, 18 sheets total.

I exhibited my typical over-thinking and over-executed technique and first
made poster-board patterns for all the various panel shapes. This allowed me
to optimize waste reduction by trial-and-error placing of the patterns on
each sheet prior to actual cutting. I also installed all the pieces without
overlap, instead placing them edge-to-edge.
I covered ALL the interior: rear firewall and hatch, full floor, interior
rockers, wheel houses, all sides of the center tunnel, front bulkhead and
bottom portions of the cowl.

(Yes, I know Dynamat results are pretty good when just covering most of a
panel instead of a full edge-to-edge covering, but its kind of like
'clocking' the nine screws on the LeCarra steering wheel. Not necessary, but
just something I do.)  

After this one-layer install, I had just three full sheets and a lot of
scrap remaining. By weight, I've calculated I used roughly 45 square feet
and added about 16.5 pounds of material for that one-layer install.

I then added a second layer to the rear firewall and all sides (F to R) of
the center tunnel. (I did not add a second layer to the hatch as I have had
it CermaKromed at CAPS here in Fresno.)  This took about 15 square feet and
added another 5.5 pounds. For most of the second layer, I was forced to
piece smaller scraps together in forming the larger patterns.

In summary, I added only about 22 pounds of weight, covered the full
interior with one layer and covered the main heat-transferring panels with
two layers, and spent about $300. Time spent? Patterns and installation must
have been about 40-60 hours. 

(Think that is excessive? Don't ask how many hours I spent figuring out how
to adapt and cut a set of Muth signal mirrors to fit into the two Colt
electric mirrors on 2511.)

I found the Dynamat very easy to work with. Cuts easily with good scissors
or box knife; a good-sized scrap of plywood serves well for the long
box-knife cuts. Foil covering is VERY durable, flexible and easily formed to
reasonable compound curves. When carefully handled, it can be repositioned
before final press-down installation. I used a 2" rubber roller for the
large surfaces, and the smooth metal handle of an old butter knife to
burnish the inside and outside corners, nooks and crannies.

Next up is the aluminized adhesive-backed radiant heat barrier (COOL IT by
ThermoTec) on the firewall, hatch and center tunnel.

Now if I can just get the A/C reliably working......

Larry





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