[DeTomaso] brass ring under thermostat needed or not

Asa Jay Laughton asajay at asajay.com
Sun Jul 21 12:10:33 EDT 2013


BAD IDEA!

If you remove the brass washer, it WILL OVERHEAT ALL THE TIME.

The opening in the washer is there to allow a regulated amount of
coolant to recirculate during warm up.  When the -proper- thermostat
opens, it virtually closes off that opening restricting the
recirculation to a trickle, allowing the largest amount of coolant to go
through the radiator.  If you remove the washer altogether, the majority
of coolant will NEVER see the radiator, instead being recirculated right
back to the engine.  DON'T DO IT.  Many folks completely block that
opening so no coolant will recirculate at all, like this:
http://www.teampanteraracing.com/index.php?option=com_g2bridge&view=gallery&Itemid=57&g2_itemId=2814

Instead, you need to understand why you are overheating at low speeds. 
It's possible you don't have the right thermostat in there right now and
even when wide open it's allowing way too much coolant to bypass the
radiator and getting recirculated right back into the engine.  Do you
know what the thermostat looks like in your engine?  Are you even
running one?  The thermostat should have a lip or "hat" on the bottom of
it like this:
http://www.teampanteraracing.com/index.php?option=com_g2bridge&view=gallery&Itemid=57&g2_itemId=2645

You can see how it's supposed to restrict flow here:
http://www.teampanteraracing.com/index.php?option=com_g2bridge&view=gallery&Itemid=57&g2_itemId=2651

Next, is the temperature sender in the block or the swirl tank?  It
makes a huge difference; mainly that if it's in the swirl tank and the
tank runs dry, you'll never know it because the temp gauge will look
fine.  It should be located above the water pump, just below the
thermostat housing, like this:
http://www.teampanteraracing.com/index.php?option=com_g2bridge&view=gallery&Itemid=57&g2_itemId=2636

Check the pressure cap on the swirl tank, is it sealing properly and of
the right pressure rating?  Are your cooling fans working on the
radiator?  Are they turning the proper direction?  If they are in front,
they need to blow air -into- the radiator; if they are in back they need
to pull air -through- the radiator.

You've got a lot more things to look at.
Asa

Asa Jay Laughton, MSgt, USAFR, Retired
& Shelley Marie
Spokane, WA
******************************     
http://www.racingagainstautism.com
http://www.teampanteraracing.com
http://facebook.com/racingagainstautism


On 7/21/2013 8:53 AM, LEVITT1946 at aol.com wrote:
> Hello Friends ,
>  
> I have been battling hi engine temps since I have owned my car.
>  
> On the open road the car water temp stays steady at about 180. As soon as I 
>  pull off the highway , drive in stop and go, etc....the car starts to heat 
> up .  About 7 to 8 minutes later the car approaches 240 +. unless the car 
> is moving  and the hi temp backs down .
>  
> I am thinking of removing the brass ring below the thermostat . 
>  
> I just want to know if anyone has ever done this and does it benefit the  
> engine? 
>  
> I always hear people here say their cars can run all day in the desert and  
> the water temp hardly moves if any. I am looking to do the same. 
>  
> I am going to change the thermostat today to one I just received from  
> Dennis Quella. I currently have a 160 thermostat and have had robert shaw 180  
> (333-180) in the past and both operate exactly the same.
>  
> I open the fluidyne petcock and no air comes out. It is always a steady  
> flow of anjtifreeze.
>  
> I also have a 13 lb pressure tank cap .  
>  
> I also have noticed that at idle my voltage at the battery 12.5 to 13v  . 
> raise the idle to 2000 and the voltage moves to 13.75 to 14.
>  
> I changed the voltage regulator and no change. I have extra grounds and  
> even grounded the voltage regulator directly.
>  
> I am open for any and all ideas.
>  
> Best,
>  
> Bob Levitt
>     
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