[DeTomaso] Stress-relieving Rims

[Will Kooiman]

How are the edges on your rims?

The clip on weights tend to cause corrosion and pitting, plus the edges
like to chip off.

I bought some epay rims like that.  They were much better than the rims
that came on my car, but I never liked the "rode hard" look.

Then I read the article in Profiles (or the newsletter, I don't remember
which) where Hall Pantera took several rims, had problems repaired, and
then did all of the stripping, heat treating, and finally powder coating.
I have 4 of these, and they look MUCH better than the rims I started with.

You could see if Hall has any left.  They only cost me $250 each.

But if you go through all of that work, you want to start with a good set
- i.e. no pits, chips, etc.

--
Will





On 8/17/13 10:23 PM, "Stephen Nelson" <steve at snclocks.com> wrote:

>I searched again, this time under "annealing magnesium".  Found two
>relevant
>articles - which suggest J. Deryke is pretty much spot on in his
>recommendations for stress relief.  If interested check out:
>
> 
>
>First
><http://news.alibaba.com/article/detail/metalworking/100188588-1-metals-kn
>ow
>ledge%253Apractical-heat-treatment-magnesium.html>  Article
>
> 
>
>Second Article <http://www.keytometals.com/Article93.htm>
>
> 
>
>Note, annealing temperatures are quite a bit warmer than the 375F he calls
>for, but that is not what we are going for - we want stress relief.  Here
>is
>a table from the ASM handbook on annealing temperatures for wrought
>magnesium alloys.  The previous two articles also reflect higher annealing
>temperatures:  
>
> 
>
>Annealing <http://www.asminternational.org/pdf/HTSRefCharts/OMM051508.pdf>
>Temperatures
>
> 
>
>Which means I will now be annealing my rims, then sandblasting them and
>refinishing.  So, next question.  I suspect I will end up spraying them
>myself to get a good seal on the metal.  Any recommendations on materials
>to
>use?  It sounds like they originally had a zinc-chromate prime - and I
>have
>some self-etching zinc-chromate primer - so suspect that would be a good
>base material.  Providing it is compatible with what ever would make a
>good
>finish.
>
> 
>
>And, yes, I could get them powder coated.  But, so far, the powder
>coaters I
>have talked to are not aware of any special requ's for magnesium and don't
>sound crazy about long cooling times.
>
> 
>
> 
>
>Stephen Nelson
>
> 
>
> 
>
> 
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: detomaso-bounces at poca.com [mailto:detomaso-bounces at poca.com] On
>Behalf
>Of JDeRyke at aol.com
>Sent: Saturday, August 17, 2013 3:59 PM
>To: michaelsavga at gmail.com
>Cc: detomaso at poca.com
>Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Stress-relieving Rims
>
> 
>
>In a message dated 8/17/13 1:38:58 PM, michaelsavga at gmail.com writes:
>
> 
>
>> Please send your methods so we can all do it.
>
>> 
>
>Piece of cake. I've published this several times before, in both POCA
>pubs 
>
>over the last 15 years, but....
>
> 
>
>* Preheat Mom's oven to 375F degrees some evening; take a clean, dry rim
>
>with no valve stem or center logo disc and put it in the oven. If the rim
>is
>
>
>not clean & dry, there WILL be smoke and smells which will not gain
>points 
>
>with the cook or the dog. Soap & water works just fine to clean Campys but
>be 
>
>sure the rim is dry. If the valve stem is left on, the heat will badly
>
>deteriorate rubber stems and the rubber grommet on metal stems. Leaks
>will 
>
>follow.
>
>* Bake for at least 2 hrs. Less time probably doesn't do as much while a
>
>little longer doesn't hurt.
>
>* Then remove the rim (gloves!) and wrap in a non-synthetic-fiber blanket
>
>and PUT IT BACK INSIDE THE HOT OVEN. Turn off the oven and let it alone
>until 
>
>Morning. The idea is, at least 2 hrs of 375F heat followed by as slow a
>
>cool-off as possible!
>
>This WILL cause stock Argent-Silver paint (or others) to turn tan. So
>have 
>
>a rattle-can ready along with a new metal valve stem. It will do nothing
>to 
>
>powder coated rims unless they have an overcoat or touch-ups of regular
>paint
>
>. 
>
> 
>
>Some owners contract with powder-coaters to coat cleaned, previously
>
>weld-repaired rims, then do a very slow cool-off in the power-coat oven as
>above. 
>
>Most powder coaters run about 350F- 375F to cure their coatings, so if
>
>they'll give you the slow cool-down afterwards, you get most of the
>annealing 
>
>service simultaneously.
>
>This is one of those mods where, if things work according to Plan A,
>
>nothing will happen, so it's diffcult to quantify as an
>improvement/upgrade.
>But I 
>
>suggest doing it every 10 years or so; I've heard of quite a few broken
>
>Campys in my 33 years with these beasts but none in the 1st 10 years of
>
>ownership, so I'm guessing on the safe period. Good luck- J Deryke
>
>_______________________________________________
>
> 
>
>Detomaso Forum Managed by POCA
>
> 
>
>DeTomaso mailing list
>
>DeTomaso at poca.com
>
>http://poca.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso
>
>_______________________________________________
>
>Detomaso Forum Managed by POCA
>
>DeTomaso mailing list
>DeTomaso at poca.com
>http://poca.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso