[DeTomaso] urgent request for help

[jtaphorn at kingwoodcable.com]

Boyd

My advice is do not overtighten initially or the gasket will squeeze out.

I spread RTV very very thinly on coat sides of the gasket.  The thickness of the RTV is equal to a fingerprint.  Then as you tighten the bolts evenly, I watch the edges of the gasket very carefully for shift.  I do not recall exactly where on the waterpump; but, at certain places the gasket will want to move out of place as it is tightened.  I see it every time. When I see the slightest shift of the gasket, I stop.  You will not be at your torque spec at this point.  Now , let the RTV dry.  Then later, take the bolts to torque spec.  Also, I do not attach the timing marker initially, as it blocks the view of gasket slip.  I add that part on the final torqueing.

JT 
---- boyd casey <boyd411 at gmail.com> wrote: 

=============
Dear Fellow Pantera enthusiast's,
Assume of you may remember I wrote a few days ago about a problem with my
cooling system. I replaced my Thermostat with the correct copper top
thermostat with a 180 degree opening temp and as Mike Drew Hypothesized my
water pump was no longer a "pump" in the technical definition of a "pump".
My replacement high capacity aluminum "Flow Kooler" arrived last night and
I am ready to install it. I have a few questions.  What is the proper
permatex ( 0r other brand) gasket treatment I should use to coat the gasket
before I install it. I also found that the over heating caused an "over
Pressure situation and the rubber hose that joins two segments os the
stainless steel has sprung a leak. What is the proper hose to use to
replace this with? Should I use rubber or silicone and is their a brand and
a series (green stripe, Yellow stripe etc.) that I should use. I would like
to get this done before i gets to hot today.  It is 9:41 am EST here and it
is still  a moderate 74 degrees. Your expedient help will be greatly
appreciated.

Thanks,

Boyd
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