[DeTomaso] gas tank float switch

[boyd casey]

Dear Pantera Bretheren,
I am happy to report that after the help full hints I received from
everyone and reading every post regarding fuel gauge and fuel tank sending
units I am happy to say the problem has been resolved with out having to
purchase as much as a screw!. The biggest hint was the information I got
from some old forum posts that mentioned baffles in the fuel tank and that
having a misaligned sending unit would prevent it from working. S.O. Bill
helped as usual with schematics, photos and explanations of which wire did
what (thanks again Bill.) When I checked all my wiring and realized thanks
to Julian how to check the fuel gauge I soon determined that my fuel gauge
was working but the problem was with my fuel tank sending unit. My Fuel
gauge low fuel light was lit in spite of the fact that my fuel tank was
full. This told me that my fuel float was in the "down position" So using
Sherlock Holmes like reasoning I hypothesized that either my float was not
floating and the float was in the "down position" indicating that either
the float was sunk or the float lever was blocked or jammed in the down
position. ( before reading all the related posts in the forum I was unaware
of the fact that there were baffles in the tank that could interfere with
the function of the fuel float lever. I removed the fuel sending unit from
the tank , grounded the unit , made sure the black and white wire was
attached to the fuel gauge level reading connection ( left side of the fuel
line when faced from the vent window.) And I attached the " yellow and
black low fuel wire" to the right side terminal . I then reattached the
battery. I moved the float through it's range of motion and low and behold
my fuel gauge needle responded in kind EUREKA! I had fuel gauge action!. I
disconnected the battery , carefully reinserted the fuel float being sure
to have it aligned properly.
After I had a few of the screws tightened I made sure I had a good ground
and reattached  the battery and the fuel gauge needle zoomed right up yo
full. So thanks to everyone again for their help and if I may add a point
of advice. This has proved to me once more to be sure of your diagnosis
before you start throwing money at a problem. I can't tell you the number
of times I have purchased expensive parts ( some times on the instructions
of incompetent mechanics and sometimes due to my own lack of patience )
This time I spent the time to get a clear and confirmed diagnosis before
pulling out the credit card. A new sending unit is $169.99 and a Veglia
fuel gauge is around $208.00.
So I am a happy Panterian!

Boyd

On Tue, Apr 3, 2012 at 5:11 PM, <MikeLDrew at aol.com> wrote:

>
> In a message dated 4/3/12 10 38 57, MikeLDrew at aol.com writes:
>
>
> I'd replace an entire unit if I had an entire unit that needed replacing.
> But if the unit works electrically and the only problem is that the float,
> doesn't, then I'd just replace the float.  Any float will do.  I just heard
> from somebody who fixed his fuel level sender himself that way a week or
> two ago.
>
>
> Further to that, I drove to my NAPA auto parts store to inquire.  Turns
> out they had a float in stock, which costs a whopping twelve bucks.  Crappy
> cell-phone photo here:
>
> http://www.poca.com/index.php/gallery/?g2_itemId=36056
>
> It uses a "shepard's hook" attachment scheme, same as the stock one does.
> I don't know for sure if the size is the same, but I presume the wire on
> the sender could be bent if necessary to accomodate the float.
>
> If your sender doesn't work, i.e. it reads empty all the time, remove it
> from the tank, ensure a good ground, then turn the key on and run it
> through its travel while looking at the gauge.  If the only problem is a
> punctured, non-floating float, a $12 replacement seems like a smart move.
>
> Mike