[DeTomaso] ZF leak

[Tony DiGiovanna]

I recently took my plate off in the car.  However, I had to disconnect the
rear ZF mount, detach the half-shafts at the ZF, remove the distributor cap,
disconnect the hose to the swirl tank, remove the tail pipes, disconnect the
shift linkage, then raise the ZF/engine assembly with a floor jack in the
rear.  You have to get high enough so the ZF thru-rods can come out over
just over the top of the frame rails thru the access holes in the inner
wheel well.  Of course, the floor jack is now under the plate, but a couple
of narrowed 2 x 4s can be inserted from the wheel well under the shallow
part of the oil pan to hold it up so you remove the jack.  Not sure if you
need to remove your headers, as I have 180s.

Nearly like pulling the ZF, but basically one tough step short.

-----Original Message-----
From: detomaso-bounces at realbig.com [mailto:detomaso-bounces at realbig.com] On
Behalf Of JDeRyke at aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2011 2:58 PM
To: snk20 at yahoo.com; detomaso at realbig.com
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] ZF leak

Steve, the lower plate cannot practically be removed with the ZF in place. 
There are two long bolts that will run into the lower frame rails when you 
try to remove them. The cover cannot be pulled without removing the two long

bolts. Raising the ZF... and engine... enough to allow the bolts to clear is

as much (or more) trouble than pulling the transaxle. 
And if you do somehow get the lower plate off, be aware there are precision 
spacers between the cast aluminum ears and cast iron side plates on both 
ends of the 2 long bolts. Shuffling the spacers or leaving them out can
allow 
enough space to crack the aluminum or iron ears as you try tightening the 
bolts to stop yet another leak. 
Finally, the gasket between the lower plate and ZF case is special, sold 
only by RBT Transmissions (and most parts vendors). Do not try making up
your 
own gaskets. Normally, no gasket cement is needed anywhere in the transaxle.
Your choices are to live with the leak, or try SLIGHTLY tightening all the 
lower cover bolts without stripping them, or draining and pulling the ZF out

of the car, flipping it upside down, then working on the cover/gasket 
problem. If by chance you changed from ZF's preferred old-style lube to a 
synthetic, seals and gaskets will sometimes develop leaks with synthetic
lubes 
where none existed before. So returning the assembly to old-style 80W90
might 
also stop your leak. 
If you intend to work further on your ZF, most vendors and the POCA Store 
have an overhaul manual- either paper or on DVD, describing all the parts, 
the torques needed and guidelines for safely working on this $7000+
precision 
instrument. Good luck- J DeRyke
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