[DeTomaso] master cylinder advice
JDeRyke at aol.com
JDeRyke at aol.com
Wed Mar 23 15:02:56 EDT 2011
In a message dated 3/22/11 6:27:38 PM, spkorb at gmail.com writes:
> I just put in a step bore master cylinder and booster from Precision
> Proformance. I have stock brake calipers but there is plenty of volume from
> that setup. The master appears to be a unit off of a GMC van. I honestly
> have never been happier. I'm still getting used to having brakes that work
> :)
>
I also use that same power booster & MS, which mounts flat to the firewall
with no angle. It really improved the stopping. I run Wilwood Superlite ll
four-piston calipers in front & Porsche 911 2-piston (front) calipers in
back, with a manual proprtioning valve in the rear circuit. Both calipers are
larger than stock. One of my friends uses the stock booster with 6-piston
fronts and 4-piston rears and very wide tires f & r, and while his car stops
like the Hand of God grabbed it, the pedal goes nearly to the floor. IMHO, he
desperately needs a bigger bore master for both ends!
Rule of Thumb: if you CANNOT lock a wheel in a panic stop, you need
improved brakes. If you CAN lock a wheel, you need bigger/wider tires. And as an
addendum, if your panic-stop lockup is in the rear, you need a proportioning
valve to rebalance the system for the parts you are using (including tire
sizes).
Note the stock prop-valve is non-adjustable, is in the front brake circuit
and was designed to balance all-stock brakes with 185-70 front tires and
205-70 rears. if ANYTHING has been changed, the valve is wrong and cannot be
adjusted. A manual-adjust prop-valve will allow you to re-balance your system
as it now exists. Small gauges will help as well; the circuits will develop
around 1000 psi line pressure in the rear and up to 1400 psi in the fronts.
Aeroquip lines are a real safety improvement at such pressures! Good luck- J
Deryke
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