[DeTomaso] Electrical problem from Japan

[boyd casey]

I went through a hot start problem for over a year. I would suggest a PMGR
starter from DB electrical http://www.dbelectrical.com/.
They are absolutely great! You can deal with them directly or through ebay.
I think they charge around $49.99 for a Permenant Magnet Gear Reduction
Starter which is the best type of starter you can get. I thought I had a
problem with the starter and they sent me a replacement before I even
returned the old starter!. One of the most important issues is the old Ford
starters were wired using the solenoid on the fire wall. When you switch to
a modern starter you need to change your wiring of the starter. The DB
starter come with instructions as well as a new wire to wire the starter
correctly eliminating the solenoid on the fire wall. Once I followed their
(DB'S) instructions my car started better (my starter turned with more
torque *hot the old starter turned cold! After I passed this info along SO
Bill wrote an article about it.  This is trh real deal!*

**Boyd

On Tue, Jul 26, 2011 at 10:37 AM, Rob Dumoulin <rob at dumoulins.net> wrote:

> The low voltage is one issue, but the click is another. There is a bad
> connection in the starter circuit or his solenoid is giving out. If he has
> the interior light on and tries to start the car, does the interior light
> go
> out or stay the same when the click is heard?  If it goes out, the starter
> is either zapping all the power the battery can provide or there is a
> short.
> If it stays the same, the starter is not getting enough juice. I'd bet the
> light stays the same and the starter is not kicking in. In that case, start
> with cleaning all the wires going to the starter and solenoid.
>
> On Tue, Jul 26, 2011 at 10:27 AM, <MikeLDrew at aol.com> wrote:
>
> > Hi guys,
> >
> > I've been helping a Japanese Pantera owner named Hiro sort out various
> > problems with his Pantera.   Today he wrote to me:
> >
> > =====
> >
> >
> > Actually it seems a few problems at my Pantera.
> > After 1 hour night driving with Japanese traffic jam about 20 minutes,
> > I waited a friend with keeping idles for 2 or 3 minutes.
> > When I moved to another place, suddenly engine stalled and no restarted.
> > Lighting at head or meters did work but not ignited even turned key.
> > Just heard click sound from a relay.
> >
> > Next day, it worked without any special repair.
> > I measured volt at battery, 11.5V.
> > >From alternator, 9.7V at idling and 14V at racing to 4000rpm.
> > Amp meter shows 0 at idling and less than 75, about 50??
> > (my amp meter is from Hall for 100 amp alternator)
> >
> >
> > After short break, I turned key again but not ignited again...
> > I hit softly the starter sometimes and tried.  It worked.  I am not sure
> if
> > the hitting starter made him got up or not.
> >
> > Alternator : from PMI 1 year ago
> > Battery : optima red 1 year ago
> > Starter : seems normal
> >
> >
> > Do you have any advice to check?
> >
> > Regards,
> > Hiro
> >
> > ========
> >
> > It sounds to me like a simple case of a bad one-wire alternator that
> fails
> > to provide enough energy at low rpm.   9.7 volts at idle just isn't
> right.
> > So my advice was to replace it with a properly engineered 90-100 amp
> > three-wire alternator (and while he's at it, he might as well put a new
> > mini-starter in as well).
> >
> > Do any of you have any other ideas worth exploring?   (We already covered
> > the need to check for good ground, good electrical connections etc.).
> >
> > Since Hiro isn't on the forum, please 'reply all' so that he will get to
> > see what you have to say.
> >
> > THANKS!
> >
> > Mike
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>
> --
> Rob DuMoulin
> 904.476.8744
> rob at dumoulins.net
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