[DeTomaso] Not running ...

[Will Kooiman]

Drill another hole 90 degrees from the first hole.  Pin that one too.

My bet is still on jumped timing.

If you have sheared a pin already, you have to ask why?  The answer is
little plastic chunks getting sucked into your oil pump, which seize the
pump and shear the pin.

What little plastic chunks?  The chunks come from the plastic coating on the
cam gear.  Eventually, you're going to jump time.  Eventually, might have
been 2 days ago.

-----Original Message-----
From: detomaso-bounces at realbig.com [mailto:detomaso-bounces at realbig.com] On
Behalf Of Erik Anderson
Sent: Sunday, July 25, 2010 10:27 PM
To: JDeRyke at aol.com; detomaso at realbig.com
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Not running ...

Well, the pin wasn't is good shape. It was, however, perfectly aligned to
the hole on the drive rod and I wasn't able to spin the gear itself (by
hand) ... but the dist is now out so I banged out the pin and it needs to be
replaced. 

With several roll pins in hand, I am trying to crimp and bang one into a
spring pin in order to "double-pin" the replacement. That, or a 1/8" solid
drill bit seems to fit nicely. Choices, choices ...

EA


________________________________

From: Erik Anderson 
To: 'JDeRyke at aol.com' <JDeRyke at aol.com>; 'detomaso at realbig.com'
<detomaso at realbig.com> 
Sent: Sun Jul 25 13:53:21 2010
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Not running ... 


Thanks, Jack. 

This will be my second sheared gear pin in 3 years. I'm either going to
double-up the pin this time around or look at a new distributor that won't
break down so easily ...

Either way, swearing is about to ensue. 

Thanks,
EA


________________________________

From: JDeRyke at aol.com <JDeRyke at aol.com> 
To: Erik Anderson; detomaso at realbig.com <detomaso at realbig.com> 
Sent: Sun Jul 25 13:36:28 2010
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Not running ... 


In a message dated 7/25/10 12:27:06 PM, eanderson at geotracinternational.com
writes:



	s it possible to pull the distributor and get it back in WITHOUT
removing the bulhead/hatch?
	
	


Yes, if you have a cranked box-end distributor wrench that's built for
exactly this application, of course. Its a bit more difficult getting the
nut (or bolt) out with a u-jointed socket wrench. Pulling the hatch only
allows easier access to the hold-down nut (or bolt). You still need to and
climb up on top of the motor to pull the air cleaner, cap  and the
distributor body. And MARK the rotor position on the distributor body before
removing, so you're sure its pointimng to the same place once it goes back
in. No one can remember the exact position for more than a minute and again,
one tooth makes all the difference. Good luck- J Deryke
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