[DeTomaso] Not running ...
Erik Anderson
eanderson at geotracinternational.com
Sun Jul 25 23:27:27 EDT 2010
Well, the pin wasn't is good shape. It was, however, perfectly aligned to the hole on the drive rod and I wasn't able to spin the gear itself (by hand) ... but the dist is now out so I banged out the pin and it needs to be replaced.
With several roll pins in hand, I am trying to crimp and bang one into a spring pin in order to "double-pin" the replacement. That, or a 1/8" solid drill bit seems to fit nicely. Choices, choices ...
EA
________________________________
From: Erik Anderson
To: 'JDeRyke at aol.com' <JDeRyke at aol.com>; 'detomaso at realbig.com' <detomaso at realbig.com>
Sent: Sun Jul 25 13:53:21 2010
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Not running ...
Thanks, Jack.
This will be my second sheared gear pin in 3 years. I'm either going to double-up the pin this time around or look at a new distributor that won't break down so easily ...
Either way, swearing is about to ensue.
Thanks,
EA
________________________________
From: JDeRyke at aol.com <JDeRyke at aol.com>
To: Erik Anderson; detomaso at realbig.com <detomaso at realbig.com>
Sent: Sun Jul 25 13:36:28 2010
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Not running ...
In a message dated 7/25/10 12:27:06 PM, eanderson at geotracinternational.com writes:
s it possible to pull the distributor and get it back in WITHOUT removing the bulhead/hatch?
Yes, if you have a cranked box-end distributor wrench that's built for exactly this application, of course. Its a bit more difficult getting the nut (or bolt) out with a u-jointed socket wrench. Pulling the hatch only allows easier access to the hold-down nut (or bolt). You still need to and climb up on top of the motor to pull the air cleaner, cap and the distributor body. And MARK the rotor position on the distributor body before removing, so you're sure its pointimng to the same place once it goes back in. No one can remember the exact position for more than a minute and again, one tooth makes all the difference. Good luck- J Deryke
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