[DeTomaso] Chassis Drain Holes

Mon Jul 19 22:44:01 EDT 2010

No - good story Boyd!!!  Thanks, Bill

> Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2010 19:03:21 -0400
> From: boyd411 at gmail.com
> To: garth_rodericks at yahoo.com
> CC: JDeRyke at aol.com; detomaso at realbig.com
> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Chassis Drain Holes
> 
> I remember years ago when I was a teenager and they were doing construction
> at JFK airport. I went to a High School that had a very advanced science
> program. We had courses in Physics, Engineering, strength of materials ,
> Construction. This was pre calculator days. We used slide rules and we had a
> teletype terminal that was connected to a main frame at Hofstra university.
> This was all pre PC and we thought it was very cool. I took a course called
> strength of materials and we had all the formulas for calculating the
> strength and failure points of different materials in different
> configurations ( like  I beams , solid rods, hollow tubes bricks etc. And we
> had machines that would subject the different materials like a steel rod to
> compression, tension , torsion. The device would subject the sample to as
> much force as it would take until it failed. So we would have a problem as
> an assignment as an example you have a steel rod 1" in diameter 15" long and
> you were asked to calculate how much torsion it would take to fail. After we
> had done the calculations we would put a 1'steel rod 15" long into the
> torsion machine and subject it to enough force to cause it to fail. As
> teenagers we loved it because all teenagers love to destroy stuff. Getting
> to use the Teletype to access the main frame  and calculate the same
> problems we were doing on our slide rules on the mainframe we were able to
> calculate the same problems to  8 decimal places. It was very cool. The lab
> for this class was one of the most popular classes. Anyway at this time they
> were doing major construction on JFK airport ( they are still working on it
> and this was in 1970). One of the high points of the field trip was to a
> construction sight where they were building with steel I beams that were not
> painted or  covered in any conventional way. At the time this was brand new
> technology. They were using a new finish on the steel that was similar to
> Eastwood's rust encapsulater. As the steel oxidised it formed a "skin" that
> prevented the steel from rusting. As the process progressed you could see
> the color of the steel as it turned black( this is the same effect that I
> have seen using one of Eastwoods products that turns rust into a protective
> cover that is black in color.Many of you may find this very boring and think
> here goes Boyd on another long winded rant and that's probably true , but I
> find it  interesting especially since the building we saw on the field trip
> that day 40 years ago ( it was a parking facility) is still standing and has
> not rusted!. So as I finish my brake and suspension modification I am going
> to be sure to drill the drain holes and paint the underside and spray the
> insides of the frame rails with the Eastwood rust encapsulater ( using the
> rust proofing wand I bought  from harbor freight. (And I apologize if I
> bored anyone)
> Boyd
> 
> 
> 
> On Mon, Jul 19, 2010 at 2:25 PM, Garth Rodericks
> <garth_rodericks at yahoo.com>wrote:
> 
> > FWIW, I've already begun some rust-proofing efforts on my car while the
> > engine is out. I ran brushes (and used a screw driver) through the horse
> > shoe section of the chassis to loosen scale and debris and blew compressed
> > air in there to remove most of the resident crud, gravel, etc that has
> > gathered over the last 28 years. Next, I'll use my JC Whitney undercoating
> > gun (kit with extension wands/hoses to reach into frame rails) to spray
> > Eastwood Rust Encapsulator on these interior surfaces.
> >
> > Last night I cleaned the area ahead of the gas tank between the outer
> > fender and the inner body, just behind the door jamb (B-pillar?). I used
> > long screwdrivers to scrap/dig out years of dust build up and a few pieces
> > of gravel, vacuumed it out with a shop vac, and blew out any remaining
> > debris with compressed air. I did this on both sides of the car and found
> > these areas were solid (my car does not get driven in the rain). After
> > cleaning, I coated the area with Rust Encapsulator for added protection
> > against the elements and to help prevent any future rust. I may also spray
> > some Waxoil or some such solution in there as well for added protection.
> >
> > Anyway, the frame rails will receive the same treatment next!
> >
> > I might even use Rust Converter in the frame rails before coating with Rust
> > Encapsulator.
> >
> > http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-rust-converter.html
> > http://www.eastwood.com/rust-encapsulator.html
> >
> > Cheers!
> > Garth
> >
> > ------------------------------
> > *From:* boyd casey <boyd411 at gmail.com>
> > *To:* Garth Rodericks <garth_rodericks at yahoo.com>
> > *Cc:* JDeRyke at aol.com; DeTomaso Mail List <detomaso at realbig.com>
> > *Sent:* Mon, July 19, 2010 8:49:43 AM
> >
> > *Subject:* Re: [DeTomaso] Chassis Drain Holes
> >
> > I had read somewhere that it was also a "good Idea" to take a flexible
> > probe and spray either a rust inhibator , tractor oil , or one of those
> > chemical like Eastwood sells that converts Ferric Oxide into a hard shell
> > that will prevent further oxidation (rust) from occurring. Ant thoughts or
> > comments on this strategy?
> > Boyd
> >
> > On Mon, Jul 19, 2010 at 2:52 AM, Garth Rodericks <
> > garth_rodericks at yahoo.com> wrote:
> >
> >> Thanks Jack!
> >>
> >> Bill Taylor sent me a copy of your excellent article with the illustration
> >> of
> >> where the drain holes should be drilled. It's exactly what I need, and the
> >> illustration adds nicely compliments your description below. I already
> >> have
> >> drain holes in the horseshoe, but wanted to verify that I have the
> >> appropriate
> >> (number & size) drain holes in the lower frame rails too.
> >>
> >> Thanks!
> >> Garth
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> ________________________________
> >> From: "JDeRyke at aol.com" <JDeRyke at aol.com>
> >> To: garth_rodericks at yahoo.com; detomaso at realbig.com
> >> Sent: Sun, July 18, 2010 10:37:44 PM
> >> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Chassis Drain Holes
> >>
> >> There's no tightly defined place to drill the drain holes. Starting from
> >> the
> >> bellhousing area, drill three (or more) 1/2" dia holes, more-or-less
> >> equally
> >> spaced along the lower rear frame rails. Also drill a 3/8" hole in the
> >> lowest
> >> possible part of each 'horseshoe' shaped rear a-arm mount where its welded
> >> onto
> >> the inner fender panel supports. This means four 3/8" holes & six 1/2"
> >> holes).
> >> Be prepared for a small cascade of talcum powder dust and maybe mud or
> >> water
> >> from each hole as you break through.
> >>
> >> The lower frame rails have many 'doublers' welded into them; try not to
> >> pick
> >> those areas for drilling 'cause the hole's entrance into the inside of
> >> such a
> >> thick spot will be raised up so water might not completely drain, and
> >> because
> >> its really difficult to drill these holes with a hand drill anyway;
> >> thicker
> >> material just makes it worse. Deburr the outside of each hole for
> >> neatness, and
> >> go for a drive; you'll leave a contrail of brown dust behind you for a few
> >> minutes. Then you can touch up each drilled hole with rustproof paint. On
> >> cars I
> >> have to work on, I first stick a flexible magnet in thru the big oval
> >> holes in
> >> the frame rail tops. I'm amazed at what I pull or tease out of some
> >> Pantera's
> >> rails! Bolts, nuts, broken spark plugs, big rocks... you name it... Good
> >> luck- J
> >> Deryke
> >>
> >>
> >>
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