[DeTomaso] Chassis Drain Holes

boyd casey boyd411 at gmail.com
Mon Jul 19 19:03:21 EDT 2010


I remember years ago when I was a teenager and they were doing construction
at JFK airport. I went to a High School that had a very advanced science
program. We had courses in Physics, Engineering, strength of materials ,
Construction. This was pre calculator days. We used slide rules and we had a
teletype terminal that was connected to a main frame at Hofstra university.
This was all pre PC and we thought it was very cool. I took a course called
strength of materials and we had all the formulas for calculating the
strength and failure points of different materials in different
configurations ( like  I beams , solid rods, hollow tubes bricks etc. And we
had machines that would subject the different materials like a steel rod to
compression, tension , torsion. The device would subject the sample to as
much force as it would take until it failed. So we would have a problem as
an assignment as an example you have a steel rod 1" in diameter 15" long and
you were asked to calculate how much torsion it would take to fail. After we
had done the calculations we would put a 1'steel rod 15" long into the
torsion machine and subject it to enough force to cause it to fail. As
teenagers we loved it because all teenagers love to destroy stuff. Getting
to use the Teletype to access the main frame  and calculate the same
problems we were doing on our slide rules on the mainframe we were able to
calculate the same problems to  8 decimal places. It was very cool. The lab
for this class was one of the most popular classes. Anyway at this time they
were doing major construction on JFK airport ( they are still working on it
and this was in 1970). One of the high points of the field trip was to a
construction sight where they were building with steel I beams that were not
painted or  covered in any conventional way. At the time this was brand new
technology. They were using a new finish on the steel that was similar to
Eastwood's rust encapsulater. As the steel oxidised it formed a "skin" that
prevented the steel from rusting. As the process progressed you could see
the color of the steel as it turned black( this is the same effect that I
have seen using one of Eastwoods products that turns rust into a protective
cover that is black in color.Many of you may find this very boring and think
here goes Boyd on another long winded rant and that's probably true , but I
find it  interesting especially since the building we saw on the field trip
that day 40 years ago ( it was a parking facility) is still standing and has
not rusted!. So as I finish my brake and suspension modification I am going
to be sure to drill the drain holes and paint the underside and spray the
insides of the frame rails with the Eastwood rust encapsulater ( using the
rust proofing wand I bought  from harbor freight. (And I apologize if I
bored anyone)
Boyd



On Mon, Jul 19, 2010 at 2:25 PM, Garth Rodericks
<garth_rodericks at yahoo.com>wrote:

> FWIW, I've already begun some rust-proofing efforts on my car while the
> engine is out. I ran brushes (and used a screw driver) through the horse
> shoe section of the chassis to loosen scale and debris and blew compressed
> air in there to remove most of the resident crud, gravel, etc that has
> gathered over the last 28 years. Next, I'll use my JC Whitney undercoating
> gun (kit with extension wands/hoses to reach into frame rails) to spray
> Eastwood Rust Encapsulator on these interior surfaces.
>
> Last night I cleaned the area ahead of the gas tank between the outer
> fender and the inner body, just behind the door jamb (B-pillar?). I used
> long screwdrivers to scrap/dig out years of dust build up and a few pieces
> of gravel, vacuumed it out with a shop vac, and blew out any remaining
> debris with compressed air. I did this on both sides of the car and found
> these areas were solid (my car does not get driven in the rain). After
> cleaning, I coated the area with Rust Encapsulator for added protection
> against the elements and to help prevent any future rust. I may also spray
> some Waxoil or some such solution in there as well for added protection.
>
> Anyway, the frame rails will receive the same treatment next!
>
> I might even use Rust Converter in the frame rails before coating with Rust
> Encapsulator.
>
> http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-rust-converter.html
> http://www.eastwood.com/rust-encapsulator.html
>
> Cheers!
> Garth
>
> ------------------------------
> *From:* boyd casey <boyd411 at gmail.com>
> *To:* Garth Rodericks <garth_rodericks at yahoo.com>
> *Cc:* JDeRyke at aol.com; DeTomaso Mail List <detomaso at realbig.com>
> *Sent:* Mon, July 19, 2010 8:49:43 AM
>
> *Subject:* Re: [DeTomaso] Chassis Drain Holes
>
> I had read somewhere that it was also a "good Idea" to take a flexible
> probe and spray either a rust inhibator , tractor oil , or one of those
> chemical like Eastwood sells that converts Ferric Oxide into a hard shell
> that will prevent further oxidation (rust) from occurring. Ant thoughts or
> comments on this strategy?
> Boyd
>
> On Mon, Jul 19, 2010 at 2:52 AM, Garth Rodericks <
> garth_rodericks at yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> Thanks Jack!
>>
>> Bill Taylor sent me a copy of your excellent article with the illustration
>> of
>> where the drain holes should be drilled. It's exactly what I need, and the
>> illustration adds nicely compliments your description below. I already
>> have
>> drain holes in the horseshoe, but wanted to verify that I have the
>> appropriate
>> (number & size) drain holes in the lower frame rails too.
>>
>> Thanks!
>> Garth
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ________________________________
>> From: "JDeRyke at aol.com" <JDeRyke at aol.com>
>> To: garth_rodericks at yahoo.com; detomaso at realbig.com
>> Sent: Sun, July 18, 2010 10:37:44 PM
>> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Chassis Drain Holes
>>
>> There's no tightly defined place to drill the drain holes. Starting from
>> the
>> bellhousing area, drill three (or more) 1/2" dia holes, more-or-less
>> equally
>> spaced along the lower rear frame rails. Also drill a 3/8" hole in the
>> lowest
>> possible part of each 'horseshoe' shaped rear a-arm mount where its welded
>> onto
>> the inner fender panel supports. This means four 3/8" holes & six 1/2"
>> holes).
>> Be prepared for a small cascade of talcum powder dust and maybe mud or
>> water
>> from each hole as you break through.
>>
>> The lower frame rails have many 'doublers' welded into them; try not to
>> pick
>> those areas for drilling 'cause the hole's entrance into the inside of
>> such a
>> thick spot will be raised up so water might not completely drain, and
>> because
>> its really difficult to drill these holes with a hand drill anyway;
>> thicker
>> material just makes it worse. Deburr the outside of each hole for
>> neatness, and
>> go for a drive; you'll leave a contrail of brown dust behind you for a few
>> minutes. Then you can touch up each drilled hole with rustproof paint. On
>> cars I
>> have to work on, I first stick a flexible magnet in thru the big oval
>> holes in
>> the frame rail tops. I'm amazed at what I pull or tease out of some
>> Pantera's
>> rails! Bolts, nuts, broken spark plugs, big rocks... you name it... Good
>> luck- J
>> Deryke
>>
>>
>>
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