[DeTomaso] water temp sender

Christopher Kimball chrisvkimball at msn.com
Fri Dec 10 20:17:27 EST 2010


After I repainted my water bottles, I had the brilliant idea to wrap some soft material inside the coolant bottle bracket so the bottle wouldn't scratch.  The temperature gauge immediately started acting goofy.  It appears the bottle has to be grounded for the temp gauge to work!  After grounding it, things work fine again.  It reads 20 degrees hotter than it should, which, of course, is normal.

Chris

> Date: Fri, 10 Dec 2010 14:43:30 -0800
> From: cuvee at sbcglobal.net
> To: tmshinro at aol.com; detomaso at realbig.com; MikeLDrew at aol.com
> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] water temp sender
> 
> I had the same problem on my 73 turned out to be a loose connection at the sending unit.
>  
> Curt 
> 
> --- On Fri, 12/10/10, MikeLDrew at aol.com <MikeLDrew at aol.com> wrote:
> 
> 
> From: MikeLDrew at aol.com <MikeLDrew at aol.com>
> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] water temp sender
> To: tmshinro at aol.com, detomaso at realbig.com
> Date: Friday, December 10, 2010, 1:54 PM
> 
> 
> 
> In a message dated 12/10/10 13 44 3, tmshinro at aol.com writes:
> 
> 
> > Fast forward to last summer after two decades of fun-filled motoring w/o 
> > temp concerns.   I had to fix a leak in the Hall radiator and after 
> > re-filling the coolant and purging air I now find that occasionally my temp gage 
> > will go full scale over 100 degrees and then after several minutes 
> > (sometimes more) will suddenly drop like a rock to 80 - 85.  Any thoughts on what 
> > could make this happen?   Air bubbles at the sender or electrical gremlins at 
> > the gauge?  I don't see any drop in coolant (filled to the cap seal rim on 
> > the tank) and no bubbles at the radiator bleed screw so I figured there 
> > wasn't any air in the system.  I have not had any boil overs. 
> > 
> 
> Either an air bubble at the sender, or a sticking thermostat that suddenly 
> opens full-force would be my guess.   Normally they open gradually.
> 
> It's winter, you don't have anything better to do with the car at the 
> moment, why not change the thermosat just as a preventative measure?   The 
> Flowkooler (Robert Shaw) 333-180 is the one you want, available from Summit.
> 
> Fill and purge the system well.   You can't get the air out if you fill it 
> on level ground, unless you use some sort of vacuum device (a brilliant idea 
> by the way).   If you're doing it old-school, RTFM and raise the rear of 
> the car at least a foot off the ground.   Use a new radiator cap, and run it 
> through the bleed/fill cycle at least 2-3 times before you consider yourself 
> 'done'.
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> Mike
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