[DeTomaso] water temp sender

[Curt Hall]

I had the same problem on my 73 turned out to be a loose connection at the sending unit.
 
Curt 

--- On Fri, 12/10/10, MikeLDrew at aol.com <MikeLDrew at aol.com> wrote:


From: MikeLDrew at aol.com <MikeLDrew at aol.com>
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] water temp sender
To: tmshinro at aol.com, detomaso at realbig.com
Date: Friday, December 10, 2010, 1:54 PM



In a message dated 12/10/10 13 44 3, tmshinro at aol.com writes:


> Fast forward to last summer after two decades of fun-filled motoring w/o 
> temp concerns.   I had to fix a leak in the Hall radiator and after 
> re-filling the coolant and purging air I now find that occasionally my temp gage 
> will go full scale over 100 degrees and then after several minutes 
> (sometimes more) will suddenly drop like a rock to 80 - 85.  Any thoughts on what 
> could make this happen?   Air bubbles at the sender or electrical gremlins at 
> the gauge?  I don't see any drop in coolant (filled to the cap seal rim on 
> the tank) and no bubbles at the radiator bleed screw so I figured there 
> wasn't any air in the system.  I have not had any boil overs. 
> 

Either an air bubble at the sender, or a sticking thermostat that suddenly 
opens full-force would be my guess.   Normally they open gradually.

It's winter, you don't have anything better to do with the car at the 
moment, why not change the thermosat just as a preventative measure?   The 
Flowkooler (Robert Shaw) 333-180 is the one you want, available from Summit.

Fill and purge the system well.   You can't get the air out if you fill it 
on level ground, unless you use some sort of vacuum device (a brilliant idea 
by the way).   If you're doing it old-school, RTFM and raise the rear of 
the car at least a foot off the ground.   Use a new radiator cap, and run it 
through the bleed/fill cycle at least 2-3 times before you consider yourself 
'done'.

Cheers!

Mike
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