[DeTomaso] Rookie Update...

[Pantdino]

Sorry if this has already been mentioned or is irrelvant, but when I replaced my fan motors with the Meriah (sp?) motors from Hall 20 yrs ago the engine would keep running for a while after I turned off the ignition switch. This is because the Meriah motors have ball bearings and continue to spin after the power is cut off to them. As they do so they act as little generators and produce enough electricity to keep the engine running.

My car has an ignition cut out / anti-theft switch, so I shut it off with that then turn the key off

Something to consider if your engine keeps running even after you have all the other issues fixed.



Jim




-----Original Message-----
From: MikeLDrew at aol.com
To: peterdemayo at comcast.net; detomaso at realbig.com
Sent: Tue, Aug 24, 2010 9:28 pm
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Rookie Update...



n a message dated 8/24/10 20 01 25, peterdemayo at comcast.net writes:
My previous email mentioned that illumination lights for all gauges and 
peedometer were out, but tach worked. Fans and fan light were not working 
ither. Before jumping into things tonight I took time to see if and anything 
lse electrical was out. Low and behold the reverse lights and front passenger 
urn signal were not operating.
>>>I'm rather surprised that tach illumination works, but the others don't? 
 They should all be on the same circuit, I think?

 >·        One thing I did not bring up before is my key ignition. I didn’
 t think it was related to my problems, and it very well may not be. 
 Nonetheless, somehow it was miraculously fixed tonight. I have been having 
 problems turning off the car. I turn the key back and instead of the car 
hutting 
 off it just keeps running. It’s been about a 50/50 split occurrence.
 
>>Okay, now we're getting somewhere--clearly your car is haunted. :>) :>) 
>)
> Let the games begin:
 1)    Left Fuse #3 out, which is the one that kept blowing when I started 
 the car.
 2)    Did ground test on fan relay and messed with wire. Fan and fan light 
 went on! I have tried this once before and last time it was unsuccessful; 
 go figure. 
 
>>Well, at least you've isolated that the components at the end of the 
ine are working as advertised! :>)
> >3)    Instrument lights, front pass turn signal, speedo, and reverse 
 lights still remained out. Keep in mind Fuse #3 was still removed.
 
>>That would explain it--but again, are you saying your tach light is 
orking under this circumstance?
> >4)    Replaced fuse #3 multiple times after messing with relays and 
 starting car. Fuse blew every time. 
 
>>I love the idea that Asa Jay put forth about using a properly rated 
ircuit breaker instead of a fuse.   I wish I had thought to mention that--hats 
ff to AJ! :>)
Actually, I have circuit breakers instead of fuses in my aux fusebox, for 
owering the fans.   There's no real reason for it, other than it seemed like 
n elegant idea (it wasn't my idea) to ensure that the fans would keep 
orking.   If the circuit got overloaded, they'd have a little time-out and then 
hopefully come back to life.   So far it's never happened, but I'm ready if 
t does.

 >Everything out, but fans working great and did so for rest of the night.
 5)    Replaced Fuse #3 with a 10 amp vs. the 8 amp the box calls for, 
 messed with relays….. and finally all instrument lights/speedo came on! Fuse 
 did not blow.  All the better, I realized my buddy and I had turned the car 
 off and on numerous times.  Not once did I have a problem w/ the key 
 ignition or turning off the car. Throughout the remainder of the night, there 
ere 
 an “s-load” of starts and shut-offs. Again and again the key ignt. worked 
 flawlessly. Linked? Who knows?
 
>>See above comment re:   haunted. :>)
> >6)    Reverse and Rt. Pass. Signal remained out.
 7)    After pulling my hair out for a while, I finally stumbled upon what 
 I think is the reverse light problem and why fuse #3 may be blowing. On the 
 left side of the trans there is a shifter housing mounted. It has a small 1
 ” metal “cube” that screws into the housing w/ 2 wires coming off. The 
 bottom was blown out and hanging. Obviously the connection is destroyed. 
 Regardless if this is failing the rev. lights or not, it needs to be fixed.
 
>>Others have already mentioned that this is the backup light switch.   
ower comes in through one wire, flows through the switch and then back out 
he other wire.   If you disconnect both wires and touch the ends together, 
he backup lights will illuminate.  (On some cars, the key has to be on, or 
aybe the lights have to be on for the backup lights to receive power, while 
n other cars, they are hot all the time, so you can park your car in reverse 
nd walk away from it, with the backup lights stuck on.   I presume this 
atter scheme was used on the early cars, but this is all vague recollection 
nd I'm too tired to place chase-the-wire-through-the-schematic tonight).

 >8)    Will this fix the turn signal? I think so, but I would love to 
 hear everyone’s thoughts.
 Hope I didn’t bore you with my ordeal, but I felt compelled to respond. 
 Lots of passion flying around my issue in the last 24 hours! Personally I 
 think it was an epic entrance into POCA!  You can’t buy that! Thanks so much 
 everyone; I assure you that every single opinion was taken with 
 appreciation.
 PJD
 PS- I owe you all pictures, stay tuned!
 
>>Thanks for keeping us updated!   Eventually I'm sure you'll get it 
arrowed down, and if you hit a real roadblock, Bill Taylor will crack the case! 
:>)
Mike
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