[DeTomaso] Update.... still no go.... Re: Clutch woes in Asa'sgarage

[Göran Malmberg]

Asa.
1 
Asa.
Right, you should always have some play left, otherwise 
bearing will wear, and at high rpm reduce holding power. 
1 
At rest, it plays no role where the piston is located within 
the cylinder as long as it does not fall out over the full 
pedal motion. However, this is only seen from a hydraulic 
point of view. If the piston is too far from the bottom the 
mechanical lever arms will suffer from poor leverage angles. 
2 
In all cases, 1 1/2" is excessive. You have a return spring 
and an adjustment screw on the slave cylinder. When the bearing 
leaves the pressure plate fingers, there should be a 0.1" play 
before the arm rest on the adjusting screw. 

It does not matter if the piston can be manually pushed back a 
little further into the cylinder because there is no spring 
force to do so. 
3 
Different pressure plate are using different gear ratios to 
their fingers. This requires compensation in the form of an 
appropriate slave cylinder ratio. A "long throw" cylinder is 
nothing more than a cylinder with a smaller diameter piston. 
That way the piston moves a longer distance for the same master 
stroke. Of course, we get heavier pedal by making it. 
Goran


If I adjust the slave so the throw-out bearing is resting 
on the fingers of the clutch (which I don't want to do), 
then I finally get enough disengagement to barely get 
it into gear, but there is still some resistance, like it's 
still not disengage fully.
2
At rest, I can manually move the slave piston back into the housing 
between a half inch and an inch (guess here).  All this seems to do is 
push fluid back into the master reservoir.  The point is though, it 
doesn't move back on it's own.  I have a pretty darn stiff return spring

on the slave and the master appears to be returning to rest as well.  So

my overall problem appears to be the slave not compressing enough to 
give me a long enough throw.  
3
I'm not sure a long throw will help out.  
I hate to spend the money on one if it won't solve my problem.
The thing that really bums me is that I thought it used to work just 
fine before I replaced the pressure plate, disc, etc.  But then again...

it -was- toast.  <sigh>

It's starting to look like I may not get to drive it this year either.

Asa Jay

Asa Jay Laughton, MSgt, USAFR, Retired

& Shelley Marie
Spokane, WA

1971 Mach I Mustang  [ASA JAY]
1973 Pantera L 5533  [ASASCAT]
    
******************************     
http://www.asajay.com
http://www.teampanteraracing.com
  



Asa Jay Laughton wrote:
> Well, try as I might, I can't seem to get the clutch to totally 
> disengage the trans.  I have tried SOBill's method, which appears to
be 
> right on the money, but I can't seem to get enough throw.
>
> Here are my specs:
> - Master is a CNC 3/4" bore
> - Slave appears to be an aftermarket anodized part, with a 1" bore 
> (3.75" exterior length)
> - Solid line at master
> - Braided stainless (Pantera Performance Center) slave line
> - New ATE Brake Fluid
>
> I just can't seem to get enough throw, but it "used to work."  Okay,
but 
> also consider this, the pressure plate was toast, the clutch disc
pretty 
> well shot and the flywheel was heat checked.  Could it be I was being 
> fooled earlier and it didn't really have enough throw previously?
>
> So, if I put a long-throw slave on it, with the CNC master, will that 
> help me out?  I've spent nearly all day trying to adjust this with no 
> luck.  We've bled it until I have no bubbles in the line at all.  I've

> gone back twice to bleed it and not got -any- bubbles out of it.  I
just 
> don't seem to have enough throw.
>
> I'm looking for some guidance here.
> Thank you,
> Asa Jay
>
> Asa Jay Laughton, MSgt, USAFR, Retired
>
> & Shelley Marie
> Spokane, WA
>
> 1971 Mach I Mustang  [ASA JAY]
> 1973 Pantera L 5533  [ASASCAT]
>     
> ******************************     
> http://www.asajay.com
> http://www.teampanteraracing.com
>   
>
>
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