[DeTomaso] Update.... still no go.... Re: Clutch woes in Asa'sgarage

[David & Marilyn Bell]

Asa Jay,

If you get 1-1/2 inches of travel of the slave piston when the clutch is
released (at rest), my guess would be that the clutch lever arm on the side
of the bellhousing is not in the right position.  If the slave piston is too
far down in the cylinder bore (towards the rear of the car), then it will
bottom out against the stop ring at the end of the cylinder before the
clutch engages.  There isn't enough length or adjustment in the actuator rod
between the slave and clutch lever rod to cover adjusting out 1-1/2 inches.
You probably need to  rotate the clutch lever one spline on its shaft
(rotate it towards the engine) to push the slave piston higher in the slave
bore.

Dave Bell

-----Original Message-----
From: detomaso-bounces at realbig.com
[mailto:detomaso-bounces at realbig.com]On Behalf Of Asa Jay Laughton
Sent: Sunday, September 06, 2009 12:05 AM
To: detomaso at realbig.com
Subject: [DeTomaso] Update.... still no go.... Re: Clutch woes in
Asa'sgarage


I feel like I've wasted a whole day on this.  If I adjust the slave so
the throw-out bearing is resting on the fingers of the clutch (which I
don't want to do), then I finally get enough disengagement to barely get
it into gear, but there is still some resistance, like it's still not
disengaging fully.

At rest, I can manually move the slave piston back into the housing
between a half inch and an inch (guess here).  All this seems to do is
push fluid back into the master reservoir.  The point is though, it
doesn't move back on it's own.  I have a pretty darn stiff return spring
on the slave and the master appears to be returning to rest as well.  So
my overall problem appears to be the slave not compressing enough to
give me a long enough throw.  I'm not sure a long throw will help out.
I hate to spend the money on one if it won't solve my problem.

The thing that really bums me is that I thought it used to work just
fine before I replaced the pressure plate, disc, etc.  But then again...
it -was- toast.  <sigh>

It's starting to look like I may not get to drive it this year either.

Asa Jay

Asa Jay Laughton, MSgt, USAFR, Retired

& Shelley Marie
Spokane, WA

1971 Mach I Mustang  [ASA JAY]
1973 Pantera L 5533  [ASASCAT]

******************************
http://www.asajay.com
http://www.teampanteraracing.com




Asa Jay Laughton wrote:
> Well, try as I might, I can't seem to get the clutch to totally
> disengage the trans.  I have tried SOBill's method, which appears to be
> right on the money, but I can't seem to get enough throw.
>
> Here are my specs:
> - Master is a CNC 3/4" bore
> - Slave appears to be an aftermarket anodized part, with a 1" bore
> (3.75" exterior length)
> - Solid line at master
> - Braided stainless (Pantera Performance Center) slave line
> - New ATE Brake Fluid
>
> I just can't seem to get enough throw, but it "used to work."  Okay, but
> also consider this, the pressure plate was toast, the clutch disc pretty
> well shot and the flywheel was heat checked.  Could it be I was being
> fooled earlier and it didn't really have enough throw previously?
>
> So, if I put a long-throw slave on it, with the CNC master, will that
> help me out?  I've spent nearly all day trying to adjust this with no
> luck.  We've bled it until I have no bubbles in the line at all.  I've
> gone back twice to bleed it and not got -any- bubbles out of it.  I just
> don't seem to have enough throw.
>
> I'm looking for some guidance here.
> Thank you,
> Asa Jay
>
> Asa Jay Laughton, MSgt, USAFR, Retired
>
> & Shelley Marie
> Spokane, WA
>
> 1971 Mach I Mustang  [ASA JAY]
> 1973 Pantera L 5533  [ASASCAT]
>
> ******************************
> http://www.asajay.com
> http://www.teampanteraracing.com
>
>
>
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