[DeTomaso] Waterpump

[JDeRyke at aol.com]

In a message dated 3/10/09 7:47:47 AM, Thomas.Tornblom at hax.se writes:

> I am think that further pump improvement can be had be rebuilding a pump 
> with the curved vane impeller and using much closer than EOM tolerances for the 
> pump vanes to the pump housing. I just had a pump rebuilt in this fashion 
> and the difference in tolerances is significant. I cannot document any 
> improvement in coolant temps at this point with the new engine. In my opinion, a 
> custom rebuilt water pump over normal aftermarket pumps has similar advantages to 
> a custom rebuilt carb over an off the shelf Holley. Off the shelf is purdy 
> good, but custom rebuilt is better.
> 
> The Edelbrock pump has a cast curved vane impeller, with cast backing plate. 
> I'm really satisfied with my pump.
> 
Agreed, but 'better' is relative; I use a fully warmed up engine at 2500-3000 
rpms on the road as my critarium for lowering water temps. Over the years, 
I've changed absolutely everything in our 351-C's cooling system, and NOTHING I 
did had ANY effect at all on the running water temp, except adding a bigger 
aluminum Fluidyne radiator. Thats why I say the benefits of different, more 
efficient pumps, water tubes, thermostats, fans etc, etc are mostly theoretical- 
and maybe psychological- to us owners.     
One other thing- completely removing the thermostat and experimenting with 
restrictor washers of various size holes- will likely also lower stabilized 
water temps. Guys who remove the thermostat and run nothing in its place complain 
about only getting 120 F running water temps at 80 mph.... so this tells me 
the 351-C thermostat is a designed flow restriction that might benefit from 
larger drilled bypass holes in it. Something I'm going to look into later. Cheers- 
J Deryke



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